Orchard Mason Bee Basics

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Mason Bees have created quite a buzz these past few years, becoming popular with gardeners, farmers, orchardists, and stewards of our native habitats – with good reason! They are excellent pollinators, pollinating 95% of flowers they visit vs. honeybees’ 5%. This means more pollination from fewer bees, in fact it’s been found that 250 female mason bees can pollinate apples as effectively as about 50,000 honey bees! They are active starting in about late March or so here in Western WA, continuing for about 6-8 weeks until the adults die, leaving the cocoons to mature until the next spring. Their active time coincides with the bloom time of many fruit bearing plants, so they are a great addition to any home orchard or fruit garden. If you’re struggling with fruit production in your garden, adding mason bees is an excellent idea.

These native bees are solitary, nesting each to their own holes, and therefore do not have a hive or make honey. With no reason to be aggressive or protective, orchard mason bees are extremely gentle, and rarely sting. There have been zero reported cases of severe allergic reaction to mason bee stings. Kids love to watch the bees emerge from their cocoons and fill up their nest holes, they are a great way to teach about life cycles as well as develop a love for nature. Native bees are on the decline, so raising your own native bees is a great way to contribute to biodiversity and make sure the plants around you get pollinated.

If you’d like to learn more about mason bees, our bee supplier Knox Cellars Mason Bees has lots of great information HERE.

What you need to get started with Mason Bees:

Early nectar sources – dandelions, Forsythia, Pieris, witch hazel, Maple trees and fruit trees or shrubs are all great early blooming plants.

Clayey mud – if you’ve got clay in your soil naturally, you can just dig a small hole for them to access it, otherwise provide a small dish of moist clay for them nearby.

NO chemical or pesticide use – if your property is small, talk with your neighbors as well to see if they are pesticide free to keep your bees healthy.

Nesting holes – these can be paper tubes, reeds, bamboo tubes or special wooden blocks which can be cleaned. Avoid drilled wood blocks, as they can’t be cleaned, and if using reeds, paper or bamboo they’ll need to be replaced each year. These will need to be kept in a small housing of some kind that is sturdy, protective and water resistant and attached to a house, shed or sturdy post. We have several options for nesting holes and shelters available at the nursery.

Bees! – we have live bees available as loose cocoons or filled tubes as part of an easy starter kit. We keep them refrigerated so ask any nursery employee, we’re happy to get them for you.

Apples for Whidbey Island 2023

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** Apples require another apple or crabapple variety in order to produce fruit. All of our apple trees are grown on semi-dwarf rootstock in order to accommodate most home orchards, unless otherwise noted.

Ashmead’s Kernel (Dwarf)

An old English heritage apple with a very distinct, sweet-tart flavor. The greenish brown russetted fruit is not pretty, but is highly aromatic and considered to be one of the best eating apples in history. Great for ciders and cooking as well. An excellent keeper apple. Ripens in October and has good disease resistance. Pollinate with any other apple on this list except Gravenstein. A WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety.

Beni Shogun Fuji

This mutation was found in Japan in 1992. It is a heritage variety and ripens earliest of all Fujis.  This is a wonderful choice for organic growers; it is scab and mildew resistant. It has an orange-red skin and is medium to large sized. Ripens in mid-October. Juicy sweet flavor with a distinctive aroma. Excellent for eating, cider, and stores well.

Braeburn

Developed in New Zealand in the 1950s the Braeburn has become one of the most important apple varieties in production. It makes an excellent dessert apple with a crisp texture and very juicy. The flavor is described as sweet without being sugary, sharp and refreshing. It was one of the first bi-colored varieties created with shades of red and green. WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety for the Puget Sound.

Chehalis

This old favorite was discovered north of Chehalis WA in 1937. This is a large, sweet yellow apple that resembles Golden Delicious in looks and flavor but it is crisper and larger. This is a reliable, highly productive tree well suited for organic growers; it is highly resistant to scab and has good mildew resistance. Fruit ripens in September. Great for fresh eating and for baking and saucing.  Semi dwarf.

Cosmic Crisp (Dwarf available)

An exciting new variety of apple developed by Washington State University, released in 2019. Mid to late season bloom, ripens in early October. The flavor is exceptional, both sweet and tart, making it an excellent apple for fresh eating. In addition to excellent flavor it is slow to brown once cut and holds its flavor for more than a year in storage! The apple is red in color with yellow flecks on the skin. Its name came from those attractive speckles, which look like stardust (Cosmic) and the apple has a unique crisp texture, giving its name of ‘Cosmic Crisp.’ Semi dwarf and M27.

Enterprise (Dwarf)

This versatile apple started out in 1982 as a seedling and was released to market in 1993. This deep maroon apple is mildly tart and spicy, it is good for eating right off the tree, but where it really shines is in the kitchen. Its flavor improves after storage and can be stored for up to six months. This variety is very disease resistant and ripens in early October.

Gala

The most popular apple in the world, the Gala was bred by horticulturist J.H. Kidd in New Zealand circa 1934, but it wasn’t introduced to the US until the 1970s! It is a cross between Golden Delicious and one of his earlier varieties, Kidd’s Orange Red. Gala boasts a sweet flavor with hints of vanilla and has a floral aroma. The skin has a pale golden yellow background covered by a stripy red blush. Juicy and sweet with a crisp texture, this is a great multi-purpose apple suited for both fresh eating and cooking, but not for storing. Gala apples make excellent juice! Early bloomer, early to ripen. Semi dwarf.

Gravenstein

This nostalgic cultivar was the primary variety during WWII to make apple sauce and dried apples to feed the troops. The skin is a delicate waxy yellow-green with crimson spots and reddish lines.  The flesh is juicy, finely grained, and light yellow. It is a triploid variety which means it is a poor pollinator of other apples. One of the best cooking apples but sadly not suited for storage, which is why it is seldom found in markets. An early to mid season bloomer that is one of the first apples to ripen. Semi-dwarf.

Honeycrisp (Dwarf available)

A modern apple with perhaps the best eating qualities in history. Medium to large red blushed with yellow apples are highly aromatic. Explosively crisp, sweet and juicy, yet with some tartness. Excellent for fresh eating, or for pies, crisps and sauces. Fruit ripens in late September but becomes more flavorful if left on the tree into October. A good keeper apple. Good disease resistance. Pollinate with any other apple variety on this list except Gravenstein. A WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety. Semi dwarf and M27.

King, aka Tompkins King, or King of Tomkins County

This historic variety has been known since 1804. Large, waxy yellow-green background with red striping and blushing. Crisp and sweet, they are excellent for fresh eating, as well as cidering and cooking. Will keep 2-3 months. Bears mid-to-late Oct. This highly prized apple is a tip bearer: wait to prune until two inches of new growth has begun in spring. Then prune back to 6-8′ of last years growth! This variety is a triploid and is pollen sterile. It will not pollinize other varieties.

Liberty

One of the easiest apples to grow and should be included in all Whidbey orchards. It produces a bounty of medium sized, shiny red, aromatic apples with yellow overtones. Very juicy apples with crisp white flesh, and a sweet, crunchy texture. Good for fresh eating, baking and ciders. Ripens in late September and stores well. Very disease resistant. The tree tends to over-produce; thinning produces better quality fruit. Pollinate with any other apple variety on this list except Gravenstein.  A WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety.

Melrose

Developed during WWII in Ohio, the Melrose is considered a modern apple. It is a cross between Jonathan and Red Delicious. The result is flattened large fruit, whose skin is streaked and flushed with dark red over a background of yellowish-green skin, with spots of russet. The flesh is creamy white, firm, coarse-textured, and juicy. The flavor is mildly acidic, similar to Jonathan, but not as tart. It is top-rated for reliability.  Often used for baking, Melrose is a great keeper apple whose flavor often improves with storage.  Ripens in October, Semi dwarf.

Mutsu

Also known as Crispin. Sweet, honeyed flavor – good for eating, baking, and cider! Cross between Golden Delicious and Indo. Its large fruit is green/yellow. Highly resistant to frost injury. Ripens end of September. Some disease susceptibility, does not pollinate other trees, tends toward biennial production.

Pink Pearl

Flavorful, aromatic yellow apple with with BRIGHT PINK flesh! Use it to make a beautiful pink applesauce or to add color to fruit salads. Although the tree is susceptible to scab, we have found that it is worth growing anyway. Ripens in late September.

Sunrise Magic

First apple released by WSU a cross between Splendour and Gala. Pinkish-red blush over a yellow background, with firm, crisp and juicy flesh. Great fresh off the tree and stores well too. Ripens late Sept/early Oct.

Espalier:  A 3-tiered fruit tree with 3 different kinds of apple varieties grafted to one root stock:

  • Espalier 1- Gala, Honeycrisp, Fuji
  • Espalier 2- Akane, Honeycrisp, Liberty

*Apples require another apple or crabapple variety in order to produce fruit.

Need to know which trees pollinize which? Check out these Pollination Charts from Biringer Nursery.

Pears & Quince for Whidbey Island 2023

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*All of these fruit trees are grown on semi-dwarf rootstock in order to accommodate most home orchards.*

European Pears

Bartlett

Perhaps the most widely grown European pear tree in history and cultivated in America since the early 1800s. Classic bell shaped golden yellow fruit sometimes flushed red. Thin skinned, with creamy white flesh that is sweet and buttery. A multi-purpose pear grown for fresh eating, cooking, dessert, baking or juice. Ripens in September. Pollinate with any other European Pear. Prone to scab.  A WSU Mt Vernon recommended variety.

Bosc

A distinctive golden-brown pear with a long neck. Famous for its firm, crunchy, aromatic flesh and sweet, spicy flavor. The firm flesh makes it a great baking pear, but it is also delicious fresh. A very good keeper. Bosc is best picked in late September/early October and stored for several weeks in a cool, dry location. It is then brought into warmth for ripening. Can last up to 6 months in storage. Needs a different European pear variety for a pollinizer. A WSU Mt Vernon recommended variety.

Early Gold

This hardy pear is hard to beat if you’re looking for tasty fruit; sweet and crisp, it is great for eating and holds up well in desserts, baked goods, and when canned. It ripens in early August. And if green/gold fruit isn’t tempting enough, it’s also a great ornamental tree with white flowers in spring and leaves that turn gold to purple in autumn.

Maxie

Is a cross between Max Red Bartlett European and Nijisseki Asian pears, giving us the best of both worlds. Red and yellow in color this fruit is flavorful; sweet, crisp, juicy, and wonderfully aromatic- it is great for fresh eating! This tree blooms in early April and ripens in mid-September. It is also disease resistant.

Orcas

The original tree was found on Orcas Island. Large, beautiful, perfectly pear-shaped yellow fruit, with a red blush. Sweet and juicy, with smooth, buttery flesh. Good for fresh eating, or for canning and drying. Reliable and productive. Disease resistant. Ripens in September. Needs a different European pear variety for a pollinizer. A WSU Mt Vernon recommended variety.

Red Bartlett- Discovered in 1938, this was a sport of Bartlett with unique red skin. Starting crunchy and tart and dark red when under-ripe, this pear finishes bright red, super sweet and juicy when fully ripened. Fruit is ready for harvest early in season. Harvest when mature, but not fully ripe, for best texture. Somewhat disease-resistant.

Rescue

Large, sweet, fruit with mild flavor, has orange-yellow skin. Rescue is a good producer with fruit that ripens in late August. It is great for eating fresh as well as for drying. Well adapted for the Pacific Northwest, it is a vigorous, productive, and reliable variety.

Ubileen

An early ripening pear that has rated high in taste tests. Large yellow pears with a pretty red blush. Delicious eaten fresh with sweet, smooth, buttery flesh. Vigorous and productive. Disease resistant. Ripens in August. Pollinate with a different European pear variety. A WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety.

Asian Pears

Chojuro

This tree produces medium, round, brown skinned fruit that is mildly sweet & spicy with texture that is firm & crisp. Fruits ripen in mid-August. The Chojuro tree has large, waxy, dark green, foliage that turns a gorgeous red/orange in the fall.

Hosui

Introduced in the 1970s form Japan, this Asian pear is tangy with more acidity than most pears. The fruit is sweet like a European pear, but crisp like an apple. The fruit is large with a gold skin and juicy flesh. Excellent for fresh eating or baking. Ripens in late August. Self-pollinating, but will yield more with a separate pollinator such as ‘Shinseiki’.

Nijisseiki

This is a dessert cultivar bearing medium to large yellow fruits with smooth skin. The white flesh is crisp and mildly sweet. Self-fruitful but better with another variety.

Shinseiki

A beautiful rounded pear with showy yellow skin. Sweet white flesh is crisp and very juicy. Very vigorous and productive.  Good disease resistance. Stores very well. Ripens in early to mid-August. Needs a different Asian pear variety as a pollinizer. A WSU Mt Vernon recommended variety.

Espalier European Pears & 4 way Grafted

4 Way Asian Pear – Chojuro, Nijiseiki, Shinseiki, Shinko, Kosui

Espalier European Pear- Bartlett, Red Bartlett, Bosc

Quince ‘Smyra’

Cydonia oblonga is an attractive small tree with large cup-shaped pink and white flowers that yield generous crops of large yellow sweetly aromatic fruit with a flavor reminiscent of pineapple.  Used widely for preserves and pectin.  Self fertile; ripens in late fall; deserves to be more widely grown.

Need to know which trees pollinize which? Check out these Pollination Charts from Biringer Nursery.

How to Plant a Bare Root Tree

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Planting a bare-root tree or shrub is easy! There are just a few tricks you should know. These instructions should help. If you have any questions, stop by the nursery or give us a call!

  1. Unpack your plant. Remove it from the bag, and loosen or remove any tightly-wound tags or stem tapes. Carefully untangle the roots. Trim off any broken roots or branches. If the roots have dried out, soak them in plain, air-temperature water for 15 minutes to 3 hours. Do not soak for more than 4 hours.  If you cannot plant your bare root tree right away, put it outside and cover the roots with moist sawdust or mulch. Try not to store your tree this way for longer than several days.  Planting immediately after purchasing is ideal!
  2. Dig a short, wide hole, about 2′-3′ deep and wide. It should be wide enough that the roots can grow outward without crowding. If you find you dug the hole too deep, put some soil back in and firm it down with your foot to prevent settling.
  3. Using the excavated field soil, make a mound in the center of the hole, gently firming the soil as you create the mound to avoid settling. Place your plant atop the mound, spreading the roots out evenly down the sides of the mound. Take care that you are not planting too deeply; the crown should be above the soil. It is better to plant too high than too low.
  4. Sprinkle a mycorrhizae inoculant over the bare roots.
  5. Lightly amend the backfill soil with rich compost and a very light application of an organic starter fertilizer. Shovel the mixed soil into the hole, gently tamping it down as you go. It should be firmly but not tightly packed. Water generously to help settle the soil around the roots and into the hole. If you notice that your plant is sinking as the soil settles, it is VERY important to gently wiggle and lift your plant, or start over again and replant. Being planted too deeply can suffocate the root system and is the leading cause of tree death. It is better to plant too high than too low.
  6. After the water has soaked in, spread a protective mulch 2-3 inches deep in a 3-foot diameter area around the base. Leave a 4-inch circle around the base of the plant, so the mulch never touches the trunk. We recommend our Soil Building Conditioner as a mulch.
  7. If needed, stake your tree. Use 3 stakes, evenly spaced around the tree. Tie loosely enough so that the tree can move a bit, but tightly enough that it will not tip over. Trees need trunk movement to become strong and straight and self-supporting. Mark your calendar to remove the stakes after a season of growth.
  8. Protect from rabbits and rodents.  Make a 2′ – 3′ tall “tube” of galvanized hardware cloth or 1″ chicken wire to encircle the trunk.  It should fit closely, but allowing an inch or so of room between the trunk and the barrier.
  9. Protect from deer. You can make a “cage”  around the tree by wrapping a length of field fence in a circle. Or use the stakes as a framework, and wind wire or fishing line around them. Take care that no wire or plastic is touching or wrapped around the trunk of the tree. Even trees that are “deer resistant” can be subject to rutting, and newly planted trees and shrubs can be knocked down by deer. It is never a bad idea to keep newly planted plants well-sprayed with deer & rodent repellant sprays – it can help to make a bad first impression!
  10. Throughout the growing season, give your new tree plenty of water. Deep watering is recommended to help the tree develop a deep root system. Leave the hose on a trickle for 1-3 hours to make sure that water is soaking the entire root zone. It can be helpful to set a reminder alarm on your cell phone! The goal is to keep the soil moist but not soggy and to allow the soil to drain well between waterings. Deeply rooted trees are more drought-resistant in the long term. In the first season, a tree-gator bag can help make watering newly-planted trees a bit easier. If you have a spray irrigation system, DO NOT rely on it to provide adequate, deep watering. In the first 2 – 3 years you will need to supplement to make sure water is getting down deep enough.

Here’s a video with Tobey Nelson showing us the process!