Apples for 2025

*Most apples require another apple or crabapple variety to produce fruit. See chart at the end of document for more information.*

Anna: Very early blooming, early ripening and very productive. A Golden Delicious type great for fresh eating or cooking. Sweet, spicy, unusual flavor in a beautifully blushed fruit. Considered partially self-fertile but better with a pollinizer. M7 rootstock.

Ashmead Kernal: An English heirloom (1700s!) dessert apple excellent for juicing and cider. Small-medium fruits are green and yellow with golden russet. The flavor is sweet-tart and nutty and improves with storage. Scab and powdery mildew resistant. M106 rootstock.

Beni Shogun Fuji: Hailing from Japan, this variety is scab and mildew resistant making it a wonderful choice for organic growers. The fruit is medium-large with orange-red skin and a crisp texture.  It has a juicy sweet flavor and a distinctive aroma. While Fujis are considered late to ripen, this variety is the earliest in the group – ready for harvest in mid-September. It is excellent for eating, juicing, and stores well. M27 rootstock.

Braeburn: Developed in New Zealand in the 1950s, the Braeburn is considered a dessert apple: juicy with a crisp texture, and a sharp and refreshing flavor that is sweet without being sugary. The skin is washed in shades of red and green – it was one of the first bi-colored varieties created! A WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety for the Puget Sound.  Matures late, keeps well. M26 rootstock.

Chehalis: This old favorite was discovered north of Chehalis, WA in 1937. This is a large, sweet yellow apple that resembles Golden Delicious in looks and flavor but is crisper and larger. This reliable, highly productive tree is suited for organic growers; it is highly resistant to scab and has good mildew resistance. Fruit ripens in mid/late September. Great for fresh eating and saucing.  M26 rootstock.

Cosmic Crisp: Developed by Washington State University and released in 2019, this apple is suited to the PNW. Mid to late season bloom, ripens in early October. The flavor is exceptional, both sweet and tart, making it an excellent apple for fresh eating. It is slow to brown once cut, has a long storage life, and holds its flavor well. Red in color with yellow flecks on the skin. M27 rootstock. Not pollinized by Honeycrisp or Enterprise.

Dolgo Crabapple: A great pollinizer for most apples and one of the top choices for making crabapple jelly. Highly ornamental, very disease resistant, and great for wildlife.  M111 rootstock.

Enterprise: This modern apple is deep maroon. The mildly tart and spicy flavor is good for eating right off the tree. But the flavor and texture improve with storage! Keep this apple for up to 6 months in cool conditions. Apple scab immune and resistant to fire blight. Ripens in early October; holds well on the tree. M26 rootstock.

Gala: The most popular apple in the world, a cross between Golden Delicious and Kidd’s Orange Red. This apple has pale golden yellow skin covered by a stripy red blush; flesh is juicy and sweet with hints of vanilla and a floral aroma. This is a great multi-purpose apple suited for fresh eating, juicing and cooking, but not storing. Late blooming, early to ripen. Mildew resistant. M26 rootstock.

Honeycrisp: A modern apple with perhaps the best eating qualities in history. Medium to large, aromatic fruits are red blushed with yellow. Explosively crisp & juicy with a sweet-tart flavor. Excellent for fresh eating, cooking, storing and juicing! Fruit ripens in late September but becomes more flavorful if left on the tree into October. Good disease resistance. A WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety. Available on either M26 or Geneva 969 rootstock. Not pollinized by Cosmic Crisp.

Liberty: One of the easiest apples to grow, this variety should be included in all Whidbey orchards. It produces a bounty of medium sized, shiny red aromatic apples with yellow overtones. The very juicy fruit has crisp white flesh and a sweet, crunchy texture. Good for fresh eating, baking and cider. Ripens in late September and stores well. Very disease resistant. The tree tends to over-produce; thinning produces better quality fruit.  A WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety. M27 rootstock.

Lucy Gem: Yellow skin is blushed with pink. The flesh is red, with berry notes to the flavor that starts tangy and finishes sweet. A gorgeous addition to your fruit salad! M106 rootstock

Pristine: Medium sized yellow fruit, crisp and mildly tart. Reliable production and one of the first apples to ripen – in August. Excellent for cooking – saucing and baking – and good for fresh eating too. Good disease resistance. A WSU recommended variety. M26 rootstock.

Sunrise Magic: Developed by WSU, this is a cross between Splendor and Gala. Pinkish-red blush over a yellow background, fruit is firm, crisp and juicy with a bright sweet flavor. Great fresh off the tree and stores well too. Ripens late Sept/early Oct. M26 rootstock.

 

Espalier: A tiered fruit tree with 3 different kinds of apple varieties grafted to one root stock, ensured to pollinate each other.

Espalier 1: Gala, Honeycrisp, Fuji (on M26 rootstock)

Espalier 2: Akane, Honeycrisp, Liberty (on M26 rootstock)

 

Apple Rootstock Guide

M106 (EMLA106): Semidwarf, typically 10’ – 13’ tall; tolerant of many soil types except for very wet soils; early production.

Geneva 969: Semidwarf, 50% of standard size so typically 12’ – 15’ tall. High resistance to Wooly Apple aphids and fire blight. Medium resistance to Crown and Root rot. Precocious and productive. Provide adequate drainage.

M7(EMLA7): Semidwarf, unpruned tree height 2/3 of standard, or about 12’-20’. Induces early and heavy bearing, resists fire blight and powdery mildew. Moderately resistant to collar rot. Good anchorage. Very winter hardy. Trees on M-7 may be held to any desired height by summer pruning.

M26 (EMLA26): Vigorous dwarf, about 40 to 45 percent of a standard tree, usually around 12’-15’. Needs some support in early years but could be self-supporting in later years. Very early and heavy bearing. Adaptable for close plantings and double rows.

M27 (EMLA 27): Minidwarf, produces a tree 30 – 50% of the size of the standard, typically around 6’ – 9’. Precocious/early bearing and productive; support recommended.

M111 (EMLA111):  Dwarf; unpruned tree height 80-90% of standard. Excellent all-around rootstock for apples. Tolerates wet, dry, or poor soil. Resists woolly apple aphids and collar rot. Induces bearing at young age. Trees on M-111 may be held to any desired height by summer pruning.

 

Pollination Chart

In general, all apples need to be cross-pollinated by another apple that flowers at the same time. The safest is to choose another variety in bloom at the same time, but typically there is adequate overlap between each neighboring bloom category. For example, Braeburn is a mid-season apple, so while the safest is to choose another cultivar from the mid-season category, it is likely that a type from the early-mid or late season could also be used.

Varieties in *bold are pollen-sterile or triploid and cannot be used as pollinizers.

Certain apples will not be pollinized by cultivars that are in their parentage. For example, Cosmic Crisp is a cross of Enterprise x Honeycrisp so neither will work as a pollinizer.

Any apple in italics is a variety we have sold in the past but are not stocking this year.

Early Early-Mid Mid Late
Anna Akane *Ashmead’s Kernal Beni Shogun
*Gravenstein Dolgo Crabapple Braeburn Cosmic Crisp
McIntosh Early Pink Lady Chehalis Gala
Pink Pearl Empire Enterprise Golden Raindrops Crabapple
Zestar Liberty Jonamac Granny Smith
McIntosh *Jonagold Honeycrisp
North Pole Lucy Gem *King
Pristine Lucy Rose Spartan
Scarlet Sentinel Melrose
Yellow Transparent *Mutsu
  Thunderchild Crabapple
  Sunrise Magic
  Winter Banana

 

Pears for 2025

*Most varieties of pear require cross-pollination with another pear.* While European pear can pollinize Asian pear, they typically are not in bloom at the same time. Thus, it is recommended to have two varieties of European pear or two varieties of Asian pear. A hybrid pear, such as Maxie, can act as pollinator for both since its bloom time is between the two.

European Pears

Bartlett: Perhaps the most widely grown European pear tree in history and cultivated in America since the early 1800’s. Classic bell shaped golden yellow fruit sometimes flushed red. Thin skinned, with creamy white flesh that is sweet and buttery. A multi-purpose pear grown for fresh eating, cooking, dessert, baking or juice. Ripens in September. Prone to scab. WSU Mt Vernon recommended variety. Early flowering; pollinize with Ubileen.

Comice: A highly acclaimed variety for its sweet, aromatic, fine texture, superb flavor and quality. It has a distinct shape: rounded with a short neck. Skin is greenish yellow with red blush. Late harvest. Self-fruitful but better with a pollinizer such as Bartlett.

Early Gold: This hardy pear is hard to beat if you’re looking for tasty fruit. Sweet and crisp, it is great for eating and holds up well in desserts, baked goods, and when canned. It ripens in early August. And if green/gold fruit isn’t tempting enough, it’s also a great ornamental tree with white flowers in spring and leaves that turn gold to purple in autumn. Self‑fruitful but may be more productive when paired with another European pear for pollinization.

Orcas: The original tree was found on Orcas Island. Large, beautiful, perfectly pear-shaped yellow fruit, with a red blush. Sweet and juicy, with smooth, buttery flesh. Good for fresh eating, or for canning and drying. Reliable and productive. Disease resistant. Ripens in September. Pair with Comice, Maxie or Seckel for a pollinizer. WSU Mt Vernon recommended variety.

Seckel: One for the collectors & connoisseurs! Sweet, flavorful, aromatic, spicy, perhaps the best flavor of any pear. Small and cute with russet brown skin. Resists fire blight. Self‑fruitful but may be more productive when paired with another European pear for pollinization.

 

Hybrid Pears

Maxie: Is a cross between Max Red Bartlett European and Nijisseki Asian pears, giving us the best of both worlds. This red & yellow fruit is great for fresh eating. It is crisp & juicy, sweet, and wonderfully aromatic. Maxie blooms in early April and ripens in mid-September. Resistant to pear scab. Pollinize with Hosui Asian Pear.

Asian Pears

Hosui: Introduced in the 1970s from Japan, this Asian pear is tangy with more acidity than most pears. The large fruit is sweet like a European pear but crisp like an apple, with gold skin and juicy flesh. Excellent for fresh eating or baking. Ripens in late August. Self-pollinating, but will yield more with a pollinizer such as ‘Shinseiki’.

Shinseiki: A beautiful, rounded pear with showy yellow skin. Sweet white flesh is crisp and very juicy. Very vigorous and productive. Good disease resistance. Stores very well. Ripens in early to mid-August. Needs a different Asian pear variety, such as ‘Chojuro’, as a pollinizer. WSU Mt Vernon recommended variety.

Espalier European Pears & 4 way Grafted

4 Way Asian Pear: Chojuro, Nijiseiki, Shinseiki, Shinko, +/or Kosui

Espalier European Pear: Bartlett, Red Bartlett, Bosc

 

Pear Rootstock:

OHXF 97: Vigorous, widely adapted and disease resistant. Unpruned tree height of fruiting varieties 15-25 ft. Trees on OHxF 97 may be held to any desired height by summer pruning.

OHXF 333: European and Asian pears on OHxF 333 are dwarfed to about 2/3 the size of standard, or about 12-18 ft. if not pruned. Widely adapted, disease resistant. Trees on OHxF 333 may be held to any desired height by summer pruning.

Pear Pollination Guide

In general, all pears need to be cross-pollinated by another pear that flowers at the same time. The safest is to choose another variety in bloom at the same time, but typically there is adequate overlap between each neighboring bloom category. For example, because ‘Maxie’ is a mid-season bloomer, it is used to pollinize both the early-blooming Asian pears and the later blooming European Pears.

Any variety in italics is one we have sold in the past but are not stocking this year.

Early Early to mid Mid Late
Hosui Chojuro Bartlett Bosc
Shinseiki Kosui Early Gold Comice
Nijiseiki Maxie Orcas
Red Bartlett Seckel
Rescue
Ubileen

 

 

Cherries for 2025

All our fruiting cherries are grown on dwarfing Gisela 5 rootstock (unless otherwise noted) to make them easier for bird netting and access to the fruit. Sour cherries (Prunus cerasus) are said to be self-fertile, but sweet cherries (Prunus avium) need a second sweet variety as a pollinator.  *Since sour and sweet are different species, they do not pollinate each other.*

Sweet Cherries (Prunus avium):

Bing: The most popular sweet cherry on the American market, Bing cherries produce large, dark smooth skinned fruit in mid-June to early July. The fruit is firm and extremely juicy and very sweet. Great for fresh eating, baking or preserves. One tree can be a heavy producer, with mature specimens producing 50-100 lbs of fruit in one year. A WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety. Blooms early. NOT self-fertile; pair with Rainier, Lapin, Sam, or Van for pollination. Not pollinated by Bing.

Lapin: An outstanding sweet dark cherry for Northwest gardens. Fruit is very large and crack resistant, sweet and juicy, perfect for fresh eating or baking. Blooms early, ripens mid-season. Said to be self-fertile but fruit set can be improved with another variety such as Rainier or Bing. A WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety.

Rainier: Large, delicious fruits are yellow with pink blush. Blooms early. Needs a pollinizer such as Bing, Lapins, or Royal Anne or Vandalay.

Royal Rainier: Large yellow cherry with a slightly more red blush than Rainier. Excellent flavor, taste test winner. Ripens early, about 3-5 days ahead of Rainier. Pollinated by Bing and Lapins. Maxma 14 rootstock

Stella: Developed in British Columbia, Stella was the first self-fertile cherry to be named. Large, heart-shaped red fruits are sweet and juicy. Considered a universal pollinizer for all sweet cherries except Bing. Blossoms mid-season and ripens early. A reliable and heavy producer. Winner of the RHS Award of Garden Merit.

Vandalay: Well-suited to Northwest gardens. Cherries are deep wine-black, firm and have excellent flavor for fresh eating. A disease resistant/crack resistant, productive WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety. Early blooming & self-fertile, but fruit set may be improved by planting with Bing, Lapin, Rainier.

Sweet Cherry 4-way Dwarf Combo: (4 of these 5 varieties) Bing, Rainier, Lapin, Glacier, Van, Royal Ann

Tart/Pie Cherries (Prunus cerasus):

Montmorency: This variety has been cultivated in this country since the early 20th century. It is the most popular sour cherry in America. It produces a large, light red fruit for baking, drying and juicing. Self-fertile.

 

Cherry Rootstock:

Gisela 5: Dwarf 50-65% seedling size; early fruiting and productive; good frost and virus resistance, well-anchored, adaptable to a variety of soil types. Requires supplemental irrigation.

Maxma 14®: Dwarfing to about 2/3 of standard. Less dwarfing expected in fertile loamy soils. Induces early heavy bearing; crop management may be needed for productive varieties in early years. Good tolerance to wet soils, also performs well in calcareous soils. Resistant to bacterial canker and nematodes. Well anchored, very little suckering. Trees may be held to any desired height by summer pruning.

Plums for 2025

*European and Asian plums are different species and will not pollinate each other.*

ALL our plums are on Marianna 2624 Semidwarf rootstock unless otherwise noted.

European Plums (Prunus domestica vars.)

Blue Damson: Not only does this heirloom variety yield oblong, purple-skinned fruits with yellow-green flesh and a sweet tart flavor that is great for fresh eating and especially cooking, but the tree in bloom is a lovely sight in the spring! Self-fertile, but will be more productive when paired with a different European plum variety as a pollinizer. Citation rootstock.

Green Gage: Many say a Gage plum has the best flavor of all plums. Gage plums are small, rounded, and yellow-green. They are juicy and firm with a sweet, melt-in-your-mouth flavor. Excellent fresh, or for baking, preserves and canning. Self-fertile, but may produce better with a different European plum pollinizer. Ripens in late August.

Imperial Epineuse: Considered one of the most delicious plums you can grow, this plum has grown famous for its sweet, flavorful fruit. This French variety has a reddish-purple skin and yellow flesh. Large fruits are excellent for either fresh eating or drying. Once mature, the tree is a heavy producer, often yielding over 50lbs of fruit in a season. Self-fertile but may produce better with a different European plum pollinizer. A WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety.

Early Italian Prune: Very similar to Italian prune plum but ripens a few weeks earlier. Citation rootstock.

Italian Prune: Perhaps the most widely planted and beloved fruit tree in history. Deep purple oblong freestone fruits with tasty yellow flesh are great fresh off the tree and are especially suited for drying, canning and cooking. Flesh turns a nice red color when cooked. Ripens in August. Self-fertile. Can take a few years to start producing. A WSU Mt Vernon recommended variety.

Mirabelle de Metz: Hailing from France, these beautiful freestone plums are small and yellow dotted with carmine red. This very old, French cultivar is exquisitely-flavored, ripens in late summer and produces heavily each year. The intensely sweet and fragrant fruits require very little added sugar to create luscious preserves and baked goods. Needs another European plum pollinizing partner. Upright and blazingly productive most years.

 

Asian Plums (Prunus salicina vars.)

Beauty: This variety is well suited to the cool summers of western Washington. The fruits have red and yellow skin with amber-red flesh. Some say this is the most flavorful Japanese plum, sweet and juicy with a delicious flavor that melts in your mouth. Excellent for fresh eating. Vigorous and productive. Ripens in early August. A good pollinizer for many other Asian plum varieties, it is considered self-fertile but will produce more heavily with another Asian plum nearby. A WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety.

Methley: Medium to large clingstone fruit with juicy red flesh and red/purple skin. Great for fresh eating and for jelly. Flowers early with white blossoms. Ripens in early summer. Produces at a young age and sets a reliably heavy crop.  Self-fertile, but best with another variety of Asian plum as a pollinizer.

Toka: One of the hardiest Asian plum varieties. This Asian x American plum hybrid has small-to-medium size red fruit with yellow flesh that ripens in August and is so sweet, spicy, and fragrant it is commonly called the Candy or Bubblegum plum. The vigorous, upright tree is covered with white blossoms in early spring, bushels of fruit in the summer, and beautiful red fall foliage. Self-fertile and is an excellent pollinizer for other Asian and hybrid plums.

Plum Rootstock

Marianna 2624: Shallow root system tolerant of wet soils. Resists oak-root fungus and rot knot nematodes. Mature trees on this rootstock typically attain 15-20 feet but can be maintained at a desired height by summer pruning.

Peach, Apricot & Nectarine for 2025

Apricot

Harcot Apricot: This disease-resistant variety was bred in Canada, making it a great choice for northern gardens because it is a frost-hardy late bloomer resistant to brown rot and perennial canker. Fruits are oblong and yellow-orange with a rich, sweet flavor. Self-fertile but benefits from pollination from another apricot variety such as ‘Harglow’. Mariana 2624 rootstock.

Peach

Frost Peach: A seedling from the WSU Mt Vernon test gardens, this peach is a solid choice for PNW gardens. The semi-freestone fruit has yellow flesh covered in red-blushed skin and is tasty fresh or canned. This variety is very productive, vigorous, and shows resistance to peach leaf curl. It is also quite ornamental. Self-fertile. Citation or Mariana 2624 rootstock.

Harken Peach: Bred in Canada, this peach is adapted to cool summers and is one of the most reliable varieties for rainy climates. Medium-large fruit with delicious flavor, strong red blushing over yellow skin and creamy yellow non-browning flesh, great for fresh eating or canning. One of the highest rated peaches for western WA. Self-fertile. Citation rootstock.

Nectarine

Hardy Red Nectarine: The best Nectarine variety for cool, short summers. Tolerant of bacterial spot and brown rot. Freestone fruit has very sweet, yellow flesh covered in golden-blushed red-skin. Ripens in mid-August. Self-fertile. Mariana 2624 rootstock.

Rootstock Info:

Citation: Dwarfs peaches and nectarines to 8-14 ft., apricots and plums to 12-18 ft. Very tolerant of wet soil, not drought tolerant (induces early dormancy in dry soil). Very winter hardy. Resists root-knot nematodes. Induces heavy bearing at young age. Trees on Citation may be held to any desired height by summer pruning.

Marianna 2624: For apricots, plums, & most almonds. Shallow root system, tolerant of wet soils. Resists oak-root fungus and root-knot nematodes. Mature trees of standard varieties comparatively small, 15-20 ft. if unpruned. Trees on Marianna may be held to any desired height by summer pruning.

Oddballs, Combos & Crosses for 2025

Asian Persimmons

Japanese Persimmons (Diosypros kaki) can grow 15’ – 30’ tall. They are valued for both their ornamental and fruiting qualities. They require full sun and can tolerate brief periods of drought but extended drought can kill them. Regular watering will support shoot and fruit development. Asian persimmons do not need pollination to set fruit, and do so on young wood, so regular pruning to maintain vigorous, young wood is advised. Our offerings are grafted onto D. lotus rootstock.

Fuyu Jiro: Known as “Apple Persimmon”, this is a medium, flat-shaped fruit that is still crunchy when ripe, non-astringent. The hardy, attractive tree is practically pest free. You can make tea from the leaves! Fall harvest. Self- fruitful.

Chocolate: Fruits are small to medium size, oblong, with bright red skin and sweet, spicy, firm, brown flesh with superb flavor ‑ the choice of connoisseurs. The name comes not from the appearance, but for the notes of cocoa in the flavor. Self-fruitful.

 

Prunus Combos

Fruit Cocktail 4-way Combo: Frost Peach, Puget Gold Apricot, Hardy Red Nectarine, Italian Prune, Rainier Cherry and Lapin Cherry. Mariana 2624 rootstock.

4-way Fruit Salad: Frost Peach, Puget Gold Apricot, Harcot Apricot, Hardy Red Nectarine, Nadia Plum, Shiro Plum. Mariana 2624 rootstock.

 

Intergeneric Prunus Crosses

Flavor Delight Aprium: This apricot x plum hybrid produces a fruit resembling an apricot but has a firm texture and sweet flavor all its own! One of the tastiest early-season fruits. Self-fertile but more productive when pollinated by another apricot variety. Citation rootstock.

Bella Gold Peacotum: This peach x apricot x plum hybrid makes a rounded fruit with fuzzy red-gold skin. Tart skin gives way to mildly sweet amber flesh for a delightful eating experience. Early-midseason bloom, ripens mid-late season. Naturally semi-dwarf tree. Pollinized by ‘Harcot’ Apricot. Citation rootstock.

Flavor Punch Pluerry: This plum x cherry hybrid boasts extremely high flavor fruit with orange skin blushed red, and red/orange flesh. Late ripening with a long hang-time extends your fruit harvest into fall. Harvest mid August through September. Pollenized by Pluot®, Pluerry® and mid-late blooming plum. Citation rootstock.

Dapple Dandy Pluot: You may know this fruit from the grocery stores where it is sold as a Dinosaur Egg Plum. This is a freestone plum x apricot hybrid with not just a unique speckled appearance, but a juicy, delicious flavor. Pollinize with Asian plum, such as Hollywood, Beauty, or Santa Rosa plum. Citation rootstock.

Nadia Plum Cherry: This complex cross of ‘Black Amber’ Asian plum and ‘Supreme’ sweet cherry yields a tastebud-tingling combination of summery plum flavor with an intriguing note of cherry. Larger than a cherry and smaller than a plum, the skin is dark red as is the flesh. The fruit is firm, sweet/tart and very juicy! Needs pollinization from another Asian plum. Mariana 2624 rootstock.

Quince (Cydonia oblonga)

Smyrna: Pineapple Quince is an attractive small tree with large cup-shaped pink and white flowers that yield generous crops of large yellow sweetly aromatic fruit with a flavor reminiscent of pineapple. Used widely for preserves and pectin. Self-fertile; ripens in late fall; deserves to be more widely grown. Province rootstock makes a 12’-16’ tree.

Nuts for 2025

*Nuts are an investment in the long term. Trees need time to mature before they can reliably produce mature fruit. Protect the harvest from squirrels and birds.*

Hazelnuts/Filberts (Corylus avellana)

Plant in very moist, fertile, well-drained soil for best results. A full-sun to part-shade site should be chosen for optimal results. Hazelnuts are not pollinated by our native Filbert.

Jefferson: Thought to be the best all-around hazelnut variety for commercial or home growers in the USA. Extreme disease resistance; immune to Filbert Blight. Produces heavy yields of large nuts that consistently fill out their shells. An Oregon State University introduction. Pollinated by Theta & McDonald.

McDonald: Very disease resistant, early cropping, consistently productive with consistent quality and good flavor. Plant with Jefferson, Eta and/or Theta for cross-pollination.

Walnuts

Walnuts require two varieties for cross pollination. They also require patience, as they may not begin bearing until after 10 years of establishment.

Cascade: Manregian x Russian. Thin shell, excellent buttery flavor from plump, light colored kernels. Fast growing, large tree. Self-fertile but much better with a pollinizer.

Carpathian: English type, very cold-hardy, excellent quality hard nut.

Chestnuts

Chestnut Colossal: Exceptionally large nuts of good quality. Sweet flavor, smooth texture and easy to peel. Early ripening. Plant with Nevada Chestnut for cross-pollination.

Nevada Chestnut: An attractive, large spreading tree with tropical looking, glossy green leaves and showy, fragrant, yellow catkins. Medium sized, very sweet tasting nut. Plant at least two different trees to cross pollinate. Good pollinizer for Colossal.

 

Tobey’s Top 10 Roses for 2025

As the buyer of plants for Venture Out Nursery, disease resistance is top of my criteria list for any plant I bring in, but especially so with roses. The PNW is a challenging setting for even the toughest of plants, so why would we mess around with any cultivars with less-than-great ratings? For my top ten list, only the most fragrant and disease resistant plants make the cut. Following that, subjective factors come into play, such as color and petal count and a relaxed shrubby habit. So if you like a very petally and pungent plant that is easy to grow, you’re sure to enjoy any variety on this list. (The fine print: I have not grown all of these roses. My choices are based on research, not experience. I’d need a million-dollar allowance for deer fencing and staff to grow all the roses I lust for!)

Bolero

This one makes me nostalgic for my time as a wedding florist. The very fluffy white flowers are barely blushed with a hint of pink, and strongly saturated with a stupendous scent of “rose” stirred with tropical fruit – YUMMMM!!!! The flowers really pop against the disease-resistant, deep green foliage. This floribunda is a reliable rebloomer with a compact habit, making it a good choice for a small garden, tight spot, or even a pot.  What a winner!

Celestial Night

Hot pink is my guilty pleasure color and purple is a close second, so it’s natural that I’m attracted to this richly colored bloom! Vibrant color plus exceptional disease-resistance are a winning combo, not to mention the good ratings for fragrance and vase life. Its rounded habit makes it as good a choice for a hedge as for a focal shrub.

Fun In the Sun

The orangey-pinky-gold sunrise tones of these flowers begin popsicle-vibrant, then fade to ice cream pastels as the fruity fragrant blooms age. I’m all in – apricot is my favorite flower color. Add superb resistance to powdery mildew, rust and downy mildew, and a petal count that balances being fluffy-ruffley yet open enough for pollinators – this hybrid tea is guaranteed a spot on my list!

(Arborose) Kiss Me Kate

I have a few of the Arborose series in my garden and they have not disappointed. The plants all live up to the breeding guidelines of long-lasting repeat blooms, excellent disease resistance and fragrance. Kiss me Kate offers all this plus great vase life so you can enjoy her luscious blooms indoors and out!

Parfuma Summer Romance

Floribundas are a great choice to include in the garden for repeat bloom that will guarantee color throughout the summer (with proper watering). This cultivar will scent your whole garden with her quartered, ruffled cup-shaped blooms of watermelon bubblegum pink! Care should be easy, given the vigor and disease resistance.

Pavement – Snow and Purple

What an unfortunate name for this great series of roses! I grow both these cultivars in my garden. I do nothing for them and nonetheless they crank out fragrant flowers all summer and then beautiful fat red fruit in the fall. Throughout June, when bloom is the heaviest, my garden is laced with their delicious scent – it often makes me stop in my tracks just to inhale and savor the moment. I don’t know if the “pavement” name came from how tough they are, or for how densely they spread, but that is something one should know about these plants. They are in the rugosa group and while they are dense, compact growers, they definitely creep, making an ever-larger patch of themselves. Make sure you’ve got room for this one to spread. These are a great choice for seaside gardens, for naturalizing and for holding bluffs, and strangely enough – the deer mostly leave them alone!

                   

Polka

Oh goody, another apricot rose! This one is a vigorous climber that has all the fragrant, ruffled romance of the old roses combined with the attributes that modern breeding programs demand:  repeat flowering, disease tolerance, and winter hardiness. The strong apricot color will turn more peachy during warm weather.

Queen Mary 2

This royal rose has all the poise of her namesake. Her classic, high centered buds the color of bone china have a distinctive, strong fragrance of sweet rose and banana. With excellent disease resistance and winter hardiness, this hybrid tea would do well in any Whidbey Island garden.

Sunbelt Tupelo Honey

Here’s another great floribunda. Sweetly scented flowers of butterscotch yellow bloom abundantly in repeated flushes all summer over a consistent backdrop of dark green, shiny foliage. Excellent in a cottage garden setting or in a more modern landscape where a great summer bloomer is needed.

That’s a wrap on the 2025 top 10 Roses! These and lots more varieties will be available bare root and ready to plant starting in late January, be sure to sign up to get our emails or watch our social media where we’ll announce their arrival…

 

How to Plant a Bare Root Rose

Planting a bare-root Rose is easy! There are just a few tricks you should know. These instructions should help. If you have any questions, stop by the nursery or give us a call!

  1. Remove your rose from the bag, and remove or loosen any tightly-wound tags or stem tapes. Carefully untangle the roots. Trim off any broken roots or branches. Soak the roots in plain, air-temperature water for 2 – 3 hours. Do not allow the roots to dry out, and make sure not to soak for more than 4 hours.
  2. Dig a short, wide hole. It should be as deep as the root zone up to the graft, and be at least twice as wide as the roots. The hole should be wide enough to allow the roots to spread out and to grow outward without crowding. If you dug the hole too deep, put some soil back in and firm it down with your foot to prevent settling.
  3. Using the excavated field soil, make a mound in the center of the hole, firming the soil as you create the mound to avoid settling. Place your plant atop the mound, spreading the roots out evenly down the sides of the mound. Take care that you are not planting too deeply. In the Pacific Northwest, it is not necessary for the knobby graft union to be below ground level; in our wet climate this can lead to rot. Position the graft knot/crown right at ground level.
  4. Sprinkle a mycorrhizae inoculant over the roots.
  5. Fill the bottom half of the hole with the existing field soil you excavated when you dug the hole. Gently tamp it down.
  6. Generously amend the remaining backfill soil with compost or aged manure, aiming for a one-third amount of compost to field soil. Fill the rest of the hole with this amended soil, again tamping as you go. It should be firmly but not tightly packed. Water generously to help settle the soil around the roots and into the hole. If you notice that your plant is sinking as the soil settles, it is important to gently wiggle and adjust your Rose, according to the guidance above. 
  7. After the water has soaked in, spread a protective mulch 2-3 inches deep in a 3-foot diameter area around the base. Leave a 4-inch circle around the base of the plant, so the mulch never touches the trunk. We recommend our Soil Building Conditioner as a mulch.
  8. Protect from deer. Make a “cage” around the rose by inserting 3 evenly-spaced stakes around the plant (ideally at least 48” tall). Wrap a length of field fence in a circle, securing it to the stakes. Or use the stakes as a framework, and wind wire or fishing line around them. Take care that no wire or plastic is touching or wrapped around the rose. Ensure the fencing is tall enough that deer cannot stick their heads over the fence for a snack of tasty rose shoots. Additionally, it is a great idea to keep newly planted plants well-sprayed with deer repellant sprays – it can help to make a bad first impression with the deer!
  9. Throughout the growing season, give your new rose plenty of water. Deep watering is recommended to help your plant develop a deep root system. Leave the hose on a trickle for 30 minutes or so, making sure that water is soaking the entire root zone. It can be helpful to set a reminder alarm on your cell phone! The goal is to keep the soil moist but not soggy and to allow the soil to drain well between waterings. If you have a spray irrigation system, DO NOT rely on it to provide adequate, deep waterings. 
  10. Once your rose has started to bud out, feed with an organic liquid fertilizer every 3 weeks. We recommend Fish Emulsion. New roses are sensitive to root burn from granular fertilizer, esp. non-organic types.

How to Have Success with Roses

Have you met my friend Rosie? She likes to hang around all day, sunbathing, drinking and eating! She’s a colorful character – and a bit of a Diva! She’s really pretty and usually smells great. But she sure is spoiled! She can sulk if she isn’t getting her way, and she needs fairly regular visits from her personal trainer to keep her in shape! 

Ha, ha! Really, Roses are wonderful plants to include in the garden. Almost nothing compares to their scent. The ruffled, voluptuous beauty of a home-grown garden rose is hard to beat. They are surprisingly versatile and hardy plants with a bad reputation for being difficult. If you follow a few “rules”, then you can have success with Roses! 

Three main keys to success with Roses: sunlight, water & nutrition

Keeping my friend Rosie in mind, follow these tricks for success with growing Roses in your garden.

  1. Rosie loves to sunbathe. Light is one of the keys to success – Roses need lots of it. Choose a spot with no less than 6 strong hours of sun – more is better. The more light you give your plant, the more disease-free and floriferous it will be. 
  2. My friend Rosie lives in a big ol’ mansion on a hill. Soil preparation is key, and drainage is important. 
  3. Rosie likes to party – and she’s a bit of a heavy drinker! Give your plant a deep watering at least once a week.
  4. Rosie loves a good meal! Feed your plants regularly. Use organic, granular fertilizers. Synthetic fertilizers can burn the roots of a rose, esp. newly planted ones. 
  5. Rosie is a Diva; she doesn’t like competition. Don’t plant your Rose too close to other shrubs, or near established trees. Roses want all the goodness of the soil to themselves.
  6. Rosie needs her space. Roses need good air circulation to keep fungal diseases like powdery mildew and blackspot at bay. 

Those are some great basic rules to keep in mind. For more in-depth information to help you grow beautiful roses, keep reading!

Start with good genetics

Set yourself up for success. Choose good varieties. Look for Roses bred for disease resistance and repeat flowering. You can’t overcome weak genetics no matter how hard you work – so why try?!

How to plant a Rose: good soil preparation is key for success

Everything in the garden begins with the soil. While Roses are amazingly tolerant plants, if you take time to really prepare their bed, they will reward you in time with healthy, vigorous growth. These instructions are for a potted Rose. If you are planting a bare root rose, you will want to read this post.

  1. Choose a spot with good drainage and plenty of sunlight.
  2. Dig a big hole. It should be as deep as the root zone up to the graft, and be at least twice as wide as the root ball. The desired depth is to have the knobby graft be just above the soil height.
  3. Gently slide the Rose from the pot, supporting the root system with your hand. If the root ball is pretty intact, you can place it in the hole. If much of the soil falls away from the roots, then you may want to make a little mound of soil. Firm it gently with your hand. Place the rootball on top. Gently tickle the roots loose, esp. if the plant is rootbound. If the hole you dug is too deep, add some soil back in, and tamp it down gently so the plant doesn’t sink as the soil settles.
  4. Fill the bottom half of the hole with the existing field soil you excavated when you dug the hole. Gently tamp it down.
  5. Amend the remaining soil with compost, aiming for a one-fourth to one-third ratio of compost to field soil. Be more generous with very sandy or very clay soils. Fill the rest of the hole with this amended soil, gently firming the soil as you go.
  6. Water liberally. You may need to let the hose slowly trickle to soak all the surrounding soil.
  7. Spread a 2” layer of mulch around the plant to help suppress weeds and hold water in the soil. Take care not to heap the mulch around the base of the rose, but a shallow layer across the plant is okay. In this way, Roses are different than other plants.
  8. Bonus round: Make sure the surrounding bed is a good host for the Rose – not just the planting hole! Apply 2”-3” of an organic soil amendment – such as our Soil Building Conditioner, Purely Compost or Farmyard Blend – to the whole bed! Use a spading fork to “wiggle” the soil open and get that organic amendment to sift into the existing soil.  The goal is to loosen and enrich the soil around the planting hole.

How to protect a Rose from deer

Roses need protection from deer. These cute but pesky critters think Rose buds are bon-bons! To ensure they don’t nibble your plants to nubbins you will need to protect them. If you have a fenced yard for your Rose – perfect! If not, then you will need to protect your plant.

  1. Create a cage. Inserting 3 evenly-spaced stakes around the plant (ideally 48” tall). 
  2. Wrap a length of field fence in a circle, securing it to the stakes. 
  3. Or use the stakes as a framework, and wind wire or fishing line around them. Take care that no wire or plastic is touching or wrapped around the Rose. 
  4. Ensure the fencing is tall enough that deer cannot stick their heads over the fence for a snack of tasty Rose tips. 

Cage or not, it is a good idea to keep newly planted plants well-sprayed with deer repellant sprays – it can help to make a bad first impression with the deer!

How to feed a Rose

Roses are heavy feeders. Like a performance athlete, they need a nutritious diet! Here are some tips for making sure your plant has what it needs to stay healthy and flowering well.

  1.  Avoid toxic chemicals and synthetic fertilizers such as pesticides. These harsh chemicals can kill microbes and beneficial insects that naturally help a plant. Instead, go organic. These materials are gentler on the plant and the planet and won’t have a negative impact on the soil life.
  2. Ensure soil health. Yearly in early spring (just before or at bud break), after cleaning up any diseased foliage from the ground, mulch with 2” – 4” layer of compost or manure. This suppresses weeds, preserves soil moisture, and helps feed the soil and in turn, your Rose.
  3. When growth begins, apply a granular organic fertilizer. You can’t go wrong with one whose 3 numbers (the NPK) are low and balanced or close to it, like a 4-4-4, or 3-5-2, or even as high as a 10-10-10. Or look for a Rose formulation. Apply according to package directions. Dig it into the soil around the plant, and water in. This last step is particularly important: it delivers the nutrition to the roots, and prevents burned root tips.
  4. There are a few “home remedies” that rose growers employ. These may not be scientifically proven, but they don’t appear harmful. Some find alfalfa meal to be beneficial to Roses. Following package directions, dig this in around the rootzone of the plant. Beware: if you have rabbit problems in your garden you probably don’t want to do this!  Bunnies LOVE alfalfa and will be attracted to the scent. Similarly, some folks like to use bone meal to feed their Roses. This can attract dogs and make them want to eat the soil. Another “unproven” recipe is to work in a quarter cup of Epsom salts (magnesium sulphate) during your spring feeding. If you do this be SURE to water well so that salts don’t burn the roots.
  5. Every 3 weeks during the growing season, until August, water with a solution of liquid organic fertilizer. We recommend fish emulsion, or you can use a “bloom” formula.   

How to water a Rose

Roses love frequent, deep watering. 

  1. Once a week, leave the hose on a trickle for 30-60 minutes to make sure that water is soaking the entire depth of the root zone. It can be helpful to set a reminder alarm on your cell phone! Check the soil between waterings to see if an additional drink is needed. It is okay for the top 2” of soil to dry out if it is moist below that. If not, give another long soak.
  2. Don’t rely on a spray irrigation system to provide adequate, deep watering. These systems are usually programmed to provide more frequent, more shallow water.
  3. Do not wet the foliage when you water. This contributes to disease. Use drip irrigation, or aim your hose low, below the foliage. If you must wet the foliage, such as in a garden with spray head irrigation, do it early in the morning when there is plenty of sunshine and time for the foliage to dry.

How to prevent diseases & pests in Roses

  1.  The best way to ensure a disease-free rose is to select disease resistant varieties! Make this a requirement when you are shopping. For 2021, all the Roses we provide here at Venture Out have great disease resistance.
  2. If you have an existing plant that is plagued by disease, consider removing it. Life is short. Choose your battles. Why struggle against week genetics?!
  3. Give your plants room. Don’t plant Roses in a crowded spot, and don’t plant right around them. Air circulation is especially important.
  4. Clean up fallen leaves and petals. Old foliage can harbor spores and bacteria that can infect fresh foliage. Burn or landfill this stuff – don’t compost it. Avoid planting groundcover under your plant to make cleaning up easy.
  5. Remove diseased foliage as soon as you spot it.
  6. Keep the foliage dry. Use drip irrigation, or aim your hose low.
  7. Be proactive. If you know your plant tends to get a disease, begin your prevention regime early in the season. Spray before foliage emerges to kill any spores or bacteria overwintering on the stems. Then spray as the foliage opens to keep it “clean”. Follow the package directions, as some formulations are not safe for tender fresh foliage.  Always spray in the early morning with the light is gentle and the temperatures are cool and give plenty of time for the foliage to dry. Late afternoon, with similar conditions, can also be okay.
  8. Aphids love Roses. Remember that these little bugs are a favorite meal of ladybird beetles and other beneficial insects. Often it is enough to simply direct a hard stream of water at them, to knock them to the ground. Do this in the morning so the foliage has time to dry. Alternately, you can smash them with your fingers. Only resort to insecticides if the problem is severe – many of these sprays are indiscriminate and will kill the good guys along with the bad. Try to stick with organic solutions such as insecticidal soap. A remedy for any larger pests you may encounter is to shake the bugs off into a bucket of soapy water, drowning them.
  9. Keep your plants watered & fed so they are strong and able to fight off diseases!

How to maintain a Rose: harvesting, deadheading, and pruning

How you prune your Rose will depend on the type of Rose, the time of year and what your goals are. In late winter, Roses need pruning for shape. In summer, they need harvesting and deadheading. Periodically during the growing season they will need additional intervention to help guide their growth.

Whenever you prune, use a sharp pair of bypass pruners. Always cut to an outward facing node. Sanitize your tools with rubbing alcohol between cuts and especially between plants to prevent transference of diseases. Cut on a 45 degree angle, with the bud on the high side of the cut. Here is a handy picture from Completegarden.web that shows the proper cut, as well as wrong cuts and why they are bad.

Winter pruning: shape, structure and space

The goal of winter pruning is to restore shape to your Rose, to give it a good structure, and to create space within the branch arrangement. You want to have an open, even arrangement of strong healthy canes. The time to do this work is late in the winter, just as the buds are beginning to swell but before you plant leafs out. A handy reminder date for the Pacific NW is President’s Day.

  1. Remove any dead or broken branches. Remove any diseased or winter-damaged wood.
  2. Remove any suckers from below the graft union. This is the knobby area on the “trunk”, that should be just at the soil line, or slightly below. Often canes from below the graft won’t “match” the rest of the growth.
  3. Prune out any small, spindly growth on the inside.
  4. Prune out any crossing branches, and any branches growing toward the center of the plant. 
  5. Prune remaining canes: this is where it really varies among Rose types. For hybrid teas, Grandifloras, and Floribundas, cut back by half to two thirds of the shrub. For shrub roses and ramblers, remove a third of the overall canes (remember that some of the crossing canes that you pruned out in step 4 would count here). You can head them back a bit to give your plant shape, but don’t go crazy like you can with a hybrid tea. For climbers, you may not want to cut them back at all – simply prune out canes until you have a nice open structure.
  6. If there are any remaining old flowers or hips, do deadhead those away.

Summer pruning

The goal of summer pruning is to maintain flowering and vigor!

  1.  Deadheading is the removal of spent blooms. This is the key to keep plants flowering. Of course, some Roses only bloom once in their season and no amount of deadheading will help. If you are growing a variety that makes ornamental hips, you would leave some spent blooms to develop that fruit. But for most varieties of modern Roses, removing spent blooms can help with flower production. Prune back to the first leaflet of 5, just above an outward-facing bud.
  2. Maintain health and vigor with continued editing. As puny little stems emerge at the base, remove them so the plant focuses its energy on the strong growth. Remove growth cluttering the center to preserve air flow – this helps keep disease down.
  3. Sometimes a rose will throw out a stupidly long cane. Once it flowers, you can cut it back to a sensible length. For hybrid teas, Grandifloras, and Floribundas, you can cut to half the height of the shrub.
  4. For ramblers and shrub roses, and Roses that only flower once, prune for shape after flowering, a bit like you would in winter.

Cutting for harvest

The sight and scent of a Rose in the home can transform your day! If you like to cut Roses for arranging, follow these steps.

  1. Cut in the morning or evening, when temperatures are cool.
  2. If you can time your harvest to happen a few hours after watering, your blooms will have a longer vase life.
  3. Cut down the stem as deeply as needed for the size vase you plan to use.
  4. Always cut to a 5-leaflet leaf, and to a node with an outward facing bud.
  5. Immediately plunge the stem into tepid water. Increase the vase life of your bloom by making another cut underwater.
  6. Allow the stem to drink and rest for an hour or overnight before arranging.

If you would like more in-depth info on how to prune a rose, we have 2 posts with videos that can help! – How to Prune a Hybrid Tea Rose and How to Prune a Shrub Rose

Pick out your new favorite roses in our latest blog – Top 10 Roses for 2023

Remember, we are always here to help support you in your garden. If you have any questions about how to have success with Roses, stop by the nursery or give us a call!