As the buyer of plants for Venture Out Nursery, disease resistance is top of my criteria list for any plant I bring in, but especially so with roses. The PNW is a challenging setting for even the toughest of plants, so why would we mess around with any cultivars with less-than-great ratings? For my top ten list, only the most fragrant and disease resistant plants make the cut. Following that, subjective factors come into play, such as color and petal count and a relaxed shrubby habit. So if you like a very petally and pungent plant that is easy to grow, you’re sure to enjoy any variety on this list. (The fine print: I have not grown all of these roses. My choices are based on research, not experience. I’d need a million-dollar allowance for deer fencing and staff to grow all the roses I lust for!)
Bolero
This one makes me nostalgic for my time as a wedding florist. The very fluffy white flowers are barely blushed with a hint of pink, and strongly saturated with a stupendous scent of “rose” stirred with tropical fruit – YUMMMM!!!! The flowers really pop against the disease-resistant, deep green foliage. This floribunda is a reliable rebloomer with a compact habit, making it a good choice for a small garden, tight spot, or even a pot. What a winner!
Celestial Night
Hot pink is my guilty pleasure color and purple is a close second, so it’s natural that I’m attracted to this richly colored bloom! Vibrant color plus exceptional disease-resistance are a winning combo, not to mention the good ratings for fragrance and vase life. Its rounded habit makes it as good a choice for a hedge as for a focal shrub.
Fun In the Sun
The orangey-pinky-gold sunrise tones of these flowers begin popsicle-vibrant, then fade to ice cream pastels as the fruity fragrant blooms age. I’m all in – apricot is my favorite flower color. Add superb resistance to powdery mildew, rust and downy mildew, and a petal count that balances being fluffy-ruffley yet open enough for pollinators – this hybrid tea is guaranteed a spot on my list!
(Arborose) Kiss Me Kate
I have a few of the Arborose series in my garden and they have not disappointed. The plants all live up to the breeding guidelines of long-lasting repeat blooms, excellent disease resistance and fragrance. Kiss me Kate offers all this plus great vase life so you can enjoy her luscious blooms indoors and out!
Parfuma Summer Romance
Floribundas are a great choice to include in the garden for repeat bloom that will guarantee color throughout the summer (with proper watering). This cultivar will scent your whole garden with her quartered, ruffled cup-shaped blooms of watermelon bubblegum pink! Care should be easy, given the vigor and disease resistance.
Pavement – Snow and Purple
What an unfortunate name for this great series of roses! I grow both these cultivars in my garden. I do nothing for them and nonetheless they crank out fragrant flowers all summer and then beautiful fat red fruit in the fall. Throughout June, when bloom is the heaviest, my garden is laced with their delicious scent – it often makes me stop in my tracks just to inhale and savor the moment. I don’t know if the “pavement” name came from how tough they are, or for how densely they spread, but that is something one should know about these plants. They are in the rugosa group and while they are dense, compact growers, they definitely creep, making an ever-larger patch of themselves. Make sure you’ve got room for this one to spread. These are a great choice for seaside gardens, for naturalizing and for holding bluffs, and strangely enough – the deer mostly leave them alone!
Polka
Oh goody, another apricot rose! This one is a vigorous climber that has all the fragrant, ruffled romance of the old roses combined with the attributes that modern breeding programs demand: repeat flowering, disease tolerance, and winter hardiness. The strong apricot color will turn more peachy during warm weather.
Queen Mary 2
This royal rose has all the poise of her namesake. Her classic, high centered buds the color of bone china have a distinctive, strong fragrance of sweet rose and banana. With excellent disease resistance and winter hardiness, this hybrid tea would do well in any Whidbey Island garden.
Sunbelt Tupelo Honey
Here’s another great floribunda. Sweetly scented flowers of butterscotch yellow bloom abundantly in repeated flushes all summer over a consistent backdrop of dark green, shiny foliage. Excellent in a cottage garden setting or in a more modern landscape where a great summer bloomer is needed.
That’s a wrap on the 2025 top 10 Roses! These and lots more varieties will be available bare root and ready to plant starting in late January, be sure to sign up to get our emails or watch our social media where we’ll announce their arrival…
http://ventureoutnursery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Final-Logo-1-1.jpg00Tobey Nelsonhttp://ventureoutnursery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Final-Logo-1-1.jpgTobey Nelson2025-01-15 20:05:482025-01-15 20:06:36Tobey's Top 10 Roses for 2025
Planting a bare-root Rose is easy! There are just a few tricks you should know. These instructions should help. If you have any questions, stop by the nursery or give us a call!
Remove your rose from the bag, and remove or loosen any tightly-wound tags or stem tapes. Carefully untangle the roots. Trim off any broken roots or branches. Soak the roots in plain, air-temperature water for 2 – 3 hours. Do not allow the roots to dry out, and make sure not to soak for more than 4 hours.
Dig a short, wide hole. It should be as deep as the root zone up to the graft, and be at least twice as wide as the roots. The hole should be wide enough to allow the roots to spread out and to grow outward without crowding. If you dug the hole too deep, put some soil back in and firm it down with your foot to prevent settling.
Using the excavated field soil, make a mound in the center of the hole, firming the soil as you create the mound to avoid settling. Place your plant atop the mound, spreading the roots out evenly down the sides of the mound. Take care that you are not planting too deeply. In the Pacific Northwest, it is not necessary for the knobby graft union to be below ground level; in our wet climate this can lead to rot. Position the graft knot/crown right at ground level.
Sprinkle a mycorrhizae inoculant over the roots.
Fill the bottom half of the hole with the existing field soil you excavated when you dug the hole. Gently tamp it down.
Generously amend the remaining backfill soil with compost or aged manure, aiming for a one-third amount of compost to field soil. Fill the rest of the hole with this amended soil, again tamping as you go. It should be firmly but not tightly packed. Water generously to help settle the soil around the roots and into the hole. If you notice that your plant is sinking as the soil settles, it is important to gently wiggle and adjust your Rose, according to the guidance above.
After the water has soaked in, spread a protective mulch 2-3 inches deep in a 3-foot diameter area around the base. Leave a 4-inch circle around the base of the plant, so the mulch never touches the trunk. We recommend our Soil Building Conditioner as a mulch.
Protect from deer. Make a “cage” around the rose by inserting 3 evenly-spaced stakes around the plant (ideally at least 48” tall). Wrap a length of field fence in a circle, securing it to the stakes. Or use the stakes as a framework, and wind wire or fishing line around them. Take care that no wire or plastic is touching or wrapped around the rose. Ensure the fencing is tall enough that deer cannot stick their heads over the fence for a snack of tasty rose shoots. Additionally, it is a great idea to keep newly planted plants well-sprayed with deer repellant sprays – it can help to make a bad first impression with the deer!
Throughout the growing season, give your new rose plenty of water. Deep watering is recommended to help your plant develop a deep root system. Leave the hose on a trickle for 30 minutes or so, making sure that water is soaking the entire root zone. It can be helpful to set a reminder alarm on your cell phone! The goal is to keep the soil moist but not soggy and to allow the soil to drain well between waterings. If you have a spray irrigation system, DO NOT rely on it to provide adequate, deep waterings.
Once your rose has started to bud out, feed with an organic liquid fertilizer every 3 weeks. We recommend Fish Emulsion. New roses are sensitive to root burn from granular fertilizer, esp. non-organic types.
http://ventureoutnursery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Final-Logo-1-1.jpg00Tobey Nelsonhttp://ventureoutnursery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Final-Logo-1-1.jpgTobey Nelson2025-01-14 23:14:322025-01-15 20:13:04How to Plant a Bare Root Rose
Have you met my friend Rosie? She likes to hang around all day, sunbathing, drinking and eating! She’s a colorful character – and a bit of a Diva! She’s really pretty and usually smells great. But she sure is spoiled! She can sulk if she isn’t getting her way, and she needs fairly regular visits from her personal trainer to keep her in shape!
Ha, ha! Really, Roses are wonderful plants to include in the garden. Almost nothing compares to their scent. The ruffled, voluptuous beauty of a home-grown garden rose is hard to beat. They are surprisingly versatile and hardy plants with a bad reputation for being difficult. If you follow a few “rules”, then you can have success with Roses!
Three main keys to success with Roses: sunlight, water & nutrition
Keeping my friend Rosie in mind, follow these tricks for success with growing Roses in your garden.
Rosie loves to sunbathe. Light is one of the keys to success – Roses need lots of it. Choose a spot with no less than 6 strong hours of sun – more is better. The more light you give your plant, the more disease-free and floriferous it will be.
My friend Rosie lives in a big ol’ mansion on a hill. Soil preparation is key, and drainage is important.
Rosie likes to party – and she’s a bit of a heavy drinker! Give your plant a deep watering at least once a week.
Rosie loves a good meal! Feed your plants regularly. Use organic, granular fertilizers. Synthetic fertilizers can burn the roots of a rose, esp. newly planted ones.
Rosie is a Diva; she doesn’t like competition. Don’t plant your Rose too close to other shrubs, or near established trees. Roses want all the goodness of the soil to themselves.
Rosie needs her space. Roses need good air circulation to keep fungal diseases like powdery mildew and blackspot at bay.
Those are some great basic rules to keep in mind. For more in-depth information to help you grow beautiful roses, keep reading!
Start with good genetics
Set yourself up for success. Choose good varieties. Look for Roses bred for disease resistance and repeat flowering. You can’t overcome weak genetics no matter how hard you work – so why try?!
How to plant a Rose: good soil preparation is key for success
Everything in the garden begins with the soil. While Roses are amazingly tolerant plants, if you take time to really prepare their bed, they will reward you in time with healthy, vigorous growth. These instructions are for a potted Rose. If you are planting a bare root rose, you will want to read this post.
Choose a spot with good drainage and plenty of sunlight.
Dig a big hole. It should be as deep as the root zone up to the graft, and be at least twice as wide as the root ball. The desired depth is to have the knobby graft be just above the soil height.
Gently slide the Rose from the pot, supporting the root system with your hand. If the root ball is pretty intact, you can place it in the hole. If much of the soil falls away from the roots, then you may want to make a little mound of soil. Firm it gently with your hand. Place the rootball on top. Gently tickle the roots loose, esp. if the plant is rootbound. If the hole you dug is too deep, add some soil back in, and tamp it down gently so the plant doesn’t sink as the soil settles.
Fill the bottom half of the hole with the existing field soil you excavated when you dug the hole. Gently tamp it down.
Amend the remaining soil with compost, aiming for a one-fourth to one-third ratio of compost to field soil. Be more generous with very sandy or very clay soils. Fill the rest of the hole with this amended soil, gently firming the soil as you go.
Water liberally. You may need to let the hose slowly trickle to soak all the surrounding soil.
Spread a 2” layer of mulch around the plant to help suppress weeds and hold water in the soil. Take care not to heap the mulch around the base of the rose, but a shallow layer across the plant is okay. In this way, Roses are different than other plants.
Bonus round: Make sure the surrounding bed is a good host for the Rose – not just the planting hole! Apply 2”-3” of an organic soil amendment – such as our Soil Building Conditioner, Purely Compost or Farmyard Blend – to the whole bed! Use a spading fork to “wiggle” the soil open and get that organic amendment to sift into the existing soil. The goal is to loosen and enrich the soil around the planting hole.
How to protect a Rose from deer
Roses need protection from deer. These cute but pesky critters think Rose buds are bon-bons! To ensure they don’t nibble your plants to nubbins you will need to protect them. If you have a fenced yard for your Rose – perfect! If not, then you will need to protect your plant.
Create a cage. Inserting 3 evenly-spaced stakes around the plant (ideally 48” tall).
Wrap a length of field fence in a circle, securing it to the stakes.
Or use the stakes as a framework, and wind wire or fishing line around them. Take care that no wire or plastic is touching or wrapped around the Rose.
Ensure the fencing is tall enough that deer cannot stick their heads over the fence for a snack of tasty Rose tips.
Cage or not, it is a good idea to keep newly planted plants well-sprayed with deer repellant sprays – it can help to make a bad first impression with the deer!
How to feed a Rose
Roses are heavy feeders. Like a performance athlete, they need a nutritious diet! Here are some tips for making sure your plant has what it needs to stay healthy and flowering well.
Avoid toxic chemicals and synthetic fertilizers such as pesticides. These harsh chemicals can kill microbes and beneficial insects that naturally help a plant. Instead, go organic. These materials are gentler on the plant and the planet and won’t have a negative impact on the soil life.
Ensure soil health. Yearly in early spring (just before or at bud break), after cleaning up any diseased foliage from the ground, mulch with 2” – 4” layer of compost or manure. This suppresses weeds, preserves soil moisture, and helps feed the soil and in turn, your Rose.
When growth begins, apply a granular organic fertilizer. You can’t go wrong with one whose 3 numbers (the NPK) are low and balanced or close to it, like a 4-4-4, or 3-5-2, or even as high as a 10-10-10. Or look for a Rose formulation. Apply according to package directions. Dig it into the soil around the plant, and water in. This last step is particularly important: it delivers the nutrition to the roots, and prevents burned root tips.
There are a few “home remedies” that rose growers employ. These may not be scientifically proven, but they don’t appear harmful. Some find alfalfa meal to be beneficial to Roses. Following package directions, dig this in around the rootzone of the plant. Beware: if you have rabbit problems in your garden you probably don’t want to do this! Bunnies LOVE alfalfa and will be attracted to the scent. Similarly, some folks like to use bone meal to feed their Roses. This can attract dogs and make them want to eat the soil. Another “unproven” recipe is to work in a quarter cup of Epsom salts (magnesium sulphate) during your spring feeding. If you do this be SURE to water well so that salts don’t burn the roots.
Every 3 weeks during the growing season, until August, water with a solution of liquid organic fertilizer. We recommend fish emulsion, or you can use a “bloom” formula.
How to water a Rose
Roses love frequent, deep watering.
Once a week, leave the hose on a trickle for 30-60 minutes to make sure that water is soaking the entire depth of the root zone. It can be helpful to set a reminder alarm on your cell phone! Check the soil between waterings to see if an additional drink is needed. It is okay for the top 2” of soil to dry out if it is moist below that. If not, give another long soak.
Don’t rely on a spray irrigation system to provide adequate, deep watering. These systems are usually programmed to provide more frequent, more shallow water.
Do not wet the foliage when you water. This contributes to disease. Use drip irrigation, or aim your hose low, below the foliage. If you must wet the foliage, such as in a garden with spray head irrigation, do it early in the morning when there is plenty of sunshine and time for the foliage to dry.
How to prevent diseases & pests in Roses
The best way to ensure a disease-free rose is to select disease resistant varieties! Make this a requirement when you are shopping. For 2021, all the Roses we provide here at Venture Out have great disease resistance.
If you have an existing plant that is plagued by disease, consider removing it. Life is short. Choose your battles. Why struggle against week genetics?!
Give your plants room. Don’t plant Roses in a crowded spot, and don’t plant right around them. Air circulation is especially important.
Clean up fallen leaves and petals. Old foliage can harbor spores and bacteria that can infect fresh foliage. Burn or landfill this stuff – don’t compost it. Avoid planting groundcover under your plant to make cleaning up easy.
Remove diseased foliage as soon as you spot it.
Keep the foliage dry. Use drip irrigation, or aim your hose low.
Be proactive. If you know your plant tends to get a disease, begin your prevention regime early in the season. Spray before foliage emerges to kill any spores or bacteria overwintering on the stems. Then spray as the foliage opens to keep it “clean”. Follow the package directions, as some formulations are not safe for tender fresh foliage. Always spray in the early morning with the light is gentle and the temperatures are cool and give plenty of time for the foliage to dry. Late afternoon, with similar conditions, can also be okay.
Aphids love Roses. Remember that these little bugs are a favorite meal of ladybird beetles and other beneficial insects. Often it is enough to simply direct a hard stream of water at them, to knock them to the ground. Do this in the morning so the foliage has time to dry. Alternately, you can smash them with your fingers. Only resort to insecticides if the problem is severe – many of these sprays are indiscriminate and will kill the good guys along with the bad. Try to stick with organic solutions such as insecticidal soap. A remedy for any larger pests you may encounter is to shake the bugs off into a bucket of soapy water, drowning them.
Keep your plants watered & fed so they are strong and able to fight off diseases!
How to maintain a Rose: harvesting, deadheading, and pruning
How you prune your Rose will depend on the type of Rose, the time of year and what your goals are. In late winter, Roses need pruning for shape. In summer, they need harvesting and deadheading. Periodically during the growing season they will need additional intervention to help guide their growth.
Whenever you prune, use a sharp pair of bypass pruners. Always cut to an outward facing node. Sanitize your tools with rubbing alcohol between cuts and especially between plants to prevent transference of diseases. Cut on a 45 degree angle, with the bud on the high side of the cut. Here is a handy picture from Completegarden.web that shows the proper cut, as well as wrong cuts and why they are bad.
Winter pruning: shape, structure and space
The goal of winter pruning is to restore shape to your Rose, to give it a good structure, and to create space within the branch arrangement. You want to have an open, even arrangement of strong healthy canes. The time to do this work is late in the winter, just as the buds are beginning to swell but before you plant leafs out. A handy reminder date for the Pacific NW is President’s Day.
Remove any dead or broken branches. Remove any diseased or winter-damaged wood.
Remove any suckers from below the graft union. This is the knobby area on the “trunk”, that should be just at the soil line, or slightly below. Often canes from below the graft won’t “match” the rest of the growth.
Prune out any small, spindly growth on the inside.
Prune out any crossing branches, and any branches growing toward the center of the plant.
Prune remaining canes: this is where it really varies among Rose types. For hybrid teas, Grandifloras, and Floribundas, cut back by half to two thirds of the shrub. For shrub roses and ramblers, remove a third of the overall canes (remember that some of the crossing canes that you pruned out in step 4 would count here). You can head them back a bit to give your plant shape, but don’t go crazy like you can with a hybrid tea. For climbers, you may not want to cut them back at all – simply prune out canes until you have a nice open structure.
If there are any remaining old flowers or hips, do deadhead those away.
Summer pruning
The goal of summer pruning is to maintain flowering and vigor!
Deadheading is the removal of spent blooms. This is the key to keep plants flowering. Of course, some Roses only bloom once in their season and no amount of deadheading will help. If you are growing a variety that makes ornamental hips, you would leave some spent blooms to develop that fruit. But for most varieties of modern Roses, removing spent blooms can help with flower production. Prune back to the first leaflet of 5, just above an outward-facing bud.
Maintain health and vigor with continued editing. As puny little stems emerge at the base, remove them so the plant focuses its energy on the strong growth. Remove growth cluttering the center to preserve air flow – this helps keep disease down.
Sometimes a rose will throw out a stupidly long cane. Once it flowers, you can cut it back to a sensible length. For hybrid teas, Grandifloras, and Floribundas, you can cut to half the height of the shrub.
For ramblers and shrub roses, and Roses that only flower once, prune for shape after flowering, a bit like you would in winter.
Cutting for harvest
The sight and scent of a Rose in the home can transform your day! If you like to cut Roses for arranging, follow these steps.
Cut in the morning or evening, when temperatures are cool.
If you can time your harvest to happen a few hours after watering, your blooms will have a longer vase life.
Cut down the stem as deeply as needed for the size vase you plan to use.
Always cut to a 5-leaflet leaf, and to a node with an outward facing bud.
Immediately plunge the stem into tepid water. Increase the vase life of your bloom by making another cut underwater.
Allow the stem to drink and rest for an hour or overnight before arranging.
Remember, we are always here to help support you in your garden. If you have any questions about how to have success with Roses, stop by the nursery or give us a call!
http://ventureoutnursery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Final-Logo-1-1.jpg00Tobey Nelsonhttp://ventureoutnursery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Final-Logo-1-1.jpgTobey Nelson2025-01-14 20:27:512025-01-15 20:32:26How to Have Success with Roses
Planting a bare-root tree or shrub is easy! There are just a few tricks you should know. These instructions should help. If you have any questions, stop by the nursery or give us a call!
Unpack your plant. Remove it from the bag, and loosen or remove any tightly-wound tags or stem tapes. Carefully untangle the roots. Trim off any broken roots or branches. If the roots have dried out, soak them in plain, air-temperature water for 15 minutes to 3 hours. Do not soak for more than 4 hours. If you cannot plant your bare root tree right away, put it outside and cover the roots with moist sawdust or mulch. Try not to store your tree this way for longer than several days. Planting immediately after purchasing is ideal!
Dig a short, wide hole, about 2′-3′ deep and wide. It should be wide enough that the roots can grow outward without crowding. If you find you dug the hole too deep, put some soil back in and firm it down with your foot to prevent settling.
Using the excavated field soil, make a mound in the center of the hole, gently firming the soil as you create the mound to avoid settling. Place your plant atop the mound, spreading the roots out evenly down the sides of the mound. Take care that you are not planting too deeply; the crown should be above the soil. It is better to plant too high than too low.
Sprinkle a mycorrhizae inoculant over the bare roots.
Lightly amend the backfill soil with rich compost and a very light application of an organic starter fertilizer. Shovel the mixed soil into the hole, gently tamping it down as you go. It should be firmly but not tightly packed. Water generously to help settle the soil around the roots and into the hole. If you notice that your plant is sinking as the soil settles, it is VERY important to gently wiggle and lift your plant, or start over again and replant. Being planted too deeply can suffocate the root system and is the leading cause of tree death. It is better to plant too high than too low.
After the water has soaked in, spread a protective mulch 2-3 inches deep in a 3-foot diameter area around the base. Leave a 4-inch circle around the base of the plant, so the mulch never touches the trunk. We recommend our Soil Building Conditioner as a mulch.
If needed, stake your tree. Use 3 stakes, evenly spaced around the tree. Tie loosely enough so that the tree can move a bit, but tightly enough that it will not tip over. Trees need trunk movement to become strong and straight and self-supporting. Mark your calendar to remove the stakes after a season of growth.
Protect from rabbits and rodents. Make a 2′ – 3′ tall “tube” of galvanized hardware cloth or 1″ chicken wire to encircle the trunk. It should fit closely, but allowing an inch or so of room between the trunk and the barrier.
Protect from deer. You can make a “cage” around the tree by wrapping a length of field fence in a circle. Or use the stakes as a framework, and wind wire or fishing line around them. Take care that no wire or plastic is touching or wrapped around the trunk of the tree. Even trees that are “deer resistant” can be subject to rutting, and newly planted trees and shrubs can be knocked down by deer. It is never a bad idea to keep newly planted plants well-sprayed with deer & rodent repellant sprays – it can help to make a bad first impression!
Throughout the growing season, give your new tree plenty of water. Deep watering is recommended to help the tree develop a deep root system. Leave the hose on a trickle for 1-3 hours to make sure that water is soaking the entire root zone. It can be helpful to set a reminder alarm on your cell phone! The goal is to keep the soil moist but not soggy and to allow the soil to drain well between waterings. Deeply rooted trees are more drought-resistant in the long term. In the first season, a tree-gator bag can help make watering newly-planted trees a bit easier. If you have a spray irrigation system, DO NOT rely on it to provide adequate, deep watering. In the first 2 – 3 years you will need to supplement to make sure water is getting down deep enough.
Here’s a video with Tobey Nelson showing us the process!
http://ventureoutnursery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Final-Logo-1-1.jpg00Emily Martinhttp://ventureoutnursery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Final-Logo-1-1.jpgEmily Martin2025-01-13 17:46:002025-01-15 21:21:05How to Plant a Bare Root Tree
Mason Bees have created quite a buzz these past few years, becoming popular with gardeners, farmers, orchardists, and stewards of our native habitats – with good reason! They are excellent pollinators, pollinating 95% of flowers they visit vs. honeybees’ 5%. This means more pollination from fewer bees, in fact it’s been found that 250 female mason bees can pollinate apples as effectively as about 50,000 honey bees! They are active starting in about late March or so here in Western WA, continuing for about 6-8 weeks until the adults die, leaving the cocoons to mature until the next spring. Their active time coincides with the bloom time of many fruit bearing plants, so they are a great addition to any home orchard or fruit garden. If you’re struggling with fruit production in your garden, adding mason bees is an excellent idea.
These native bees are solitary, nesting each to their own holes, and therefore do not have a hive or make honey. With no reason to be aggressive or protective, orchard mason bees are extremely gentle, and rarely sting. There have been zero reported cases of severe allergic reaction to mason bee stings. Kids love to watch the bees emerge from their cocoons and fill up their nest holes, they are a great way to teach about life cycles as well as develop a love for nature. Native bees are on the decline, so raising your own native bees is a great way to contribute to biodiversity and make sure the plants around you get pollinated.
If you’d like to learn more about mason bees, our bee supplier Knox Cellars Mason Bees has lots of great information HERE.
What you need to get started with Mason Bees:
Early nectar sources – dandelions, Forsythia, Pieris, witch hazel, Maple trees and fruit trees or shrubs are all great early blooming plants.
Clayey mud – if you’ve got clay in your soil naturally, you can just dig a small hole for them to access it, otherwise provide a small dish of moist clay for them nearby.
NO chemical or pesticide use – if your property is small, talk with your neighbors as well to see if they are pesticide free to keep your bees healthy.
Nesting holes – these can be paper tubes, reeds, bamboo tubes or special wooden blocks which can be cleaned. Avoid drilled wood blocks, as they can’t be cleaned, and if using reeds, paper or bamboo they’ll need to be replaced each year. These will need to be kept in a small housing of some kind that is sturdy, protective and water resistant and attached to a house, shed or sturdy post. We have several options for nesting holes and shelters available at the nursery.
Bees! – we have live bees available as loose cocoons or filled tubes as part of an easy starter kit. We keep them refrigerated so ask any nursery employee, we’re happy to get them for you.
Follow these tips to keep your real Christmas tree as fresh as possible. If you are unable to set up your tree when you get home, store it in a cool sheltered area like the North side house, away from the wind and sun. With proper care, your Christmas tree will bring warmth and pleasure throughout the holiday season!
1. Make a fresh cut.
If you didn’t have us make a fresh cut at the Nursery, before you bring the tree into your home and place it in a stand, re-cut the trunk at least one inch from the bottom just before putting it in the stand. Even if you just cut it on a choose and cut farm, this re-opens the tree stem so it can drink water.
2. Choose a spot away from heat sources.
Heat sources like heat registers, space heaters, fireplaces, wood stove, televisions, computer monitors, etc. speed up evaporation and moisture loss of the tree.
3. Water immediately.
After making the fresh cut, place the tree in a large capacity stand with warm water. The stand you use should hold at least one gallon of fresh water.
4. Don’t add anything to the water.
Research has shown that plain tap water is the best. Some commercial additives and home concoctions can actually decrease a tree’s moisture retention and increase needle loss.
5. Check water level daily.
Do not allow the water level to drop below the fresh cut or the stem will reseal and be unable to drink. Christmas trees are very thirsty! It is not unusual for a tree to drink 2 gallons of water the first day it is the stand.
Living Christmas Trees
A Holiday Memory to Enjoy Year after Year!
Tired of investing in a beautiful conifer every December, only to throw it out in January? Consider purchasing a living Christmas tree to plant in your landscape after the holidays!
Tips for Success
1. Only keep living Christmas trees inside your home for a maximum of 7-10 days. We recommend moving the potted tree into your garage or other protected area for a week before moving it indoors. Likewise, after the holiday it’s a good idea to move it back to the garage for a week before planting. This allows the tree to adjust to the sudden change in temperature!
2.Living Christmas trees need water every day, but not too much! Once inside your home, an eight-foot conifer will enjoy about a quart of water per day, broken up into smaller doses. One way to do this is to sprinkle ice cubes over the root ball: they will melt slowly and water the tree a little at a time.
3.Use low-heat electric lights, and position the tree away from heaters to avoid drying out.
4. Choose an appropriate location to plant your tree: plenty of sunlight and well-draining soil are the two primary needs of most conifers.
5.Don’t fertilize until spring. Fertilizing during transplanting can stress the tree.
6. Water your transplanted tree.Keep an eye on your new tree for the first couple summers, and water it during periods of heat and drought. As the root system becomes more established, conifers become more independent and drought-tolerant.
Happy Holidays!
http://ventureoutnursery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Final-Logo-1-1.jpg00Venture Out Teamhttp://ventureoutnursery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Final-Logo-1-1.jpgVenture Out Team2024-11-25 09:28:042024-11-25 18:51:15Caring for your fresh cut and living Christmas Trees
Fall is a great time to plant here in the Pacific Northwest. Cool temperatures and increased moisture mean lower transpiration rates, making fall planting and transplanting less stressful for a plant than in spring or summer.
Don’t wait for spring!
Fall-planted trees, shrubs, and perennials develop more established root systems. Plants that seem to be “sleeping” during the winter are actually hard at work growing roots. Between October and March, there are several root growth cycles. A shrub planted in the fall will be more robust and resilient than the same shrub planted the following spring.
Do plant before the ground freezes!
Plants are more insulated in the ground than above it. If you have plants still sitting around in their pots, it’s better to get them into the ground than to leave them unplanted. Even if you are unsure of where they should go, plant them somewhere. You can always transplant them later! If you must leave plants unplanted, bring them into a cool garage or at least insulate their pots/root balls with some mulch, in a pile of autumn leaves, or stack some evergreen boughs around them. If you can get a shovel in the ground with relative ease, you can plant, which is the best solution.
Do check for water!
Our abundant rainfall in winter usually means less work for the gardener. Soils typically remain moist between October and April. But sometimes we see dry spells, and winter winds can be desiccating. Areas under eaves or large evergreens can tend toward the dry side as well. Don’t assume that since it is raining, your plants are well watered. Do go out and feel the soil to see if it is moist several inches down. You may need to supplement occasionally.
Do mulch!
Our fall and winter temperatures can vary, and these temperature changes can be a bit hard on roots. Providing a nice blanket of mulch can help moderate soil fluctuations, which your plants will appreciate. Plus, keeping the soil “in the dark” will suppress those cool-season weeds! Just remember to keep the mulch away from the trunks and crowns of your trees and shrubs, and don’t bury your perennials!
Do consider staking!
During the winter, we can get winds that can impact unrooted trees. Do consider staking fall-planted trees to help keep them straight. Remember to give them some wiggle room and not tie them too tightly. Here is a short video guide from the International Society of Arboriculture for staking trees.
Don’t fertilize!
Fertilizing can confuse a plant, making it think it is time to grow when it’s not. Fall-planted trees and shrubs rarely need any fertilizer. It is best to wait until March or April to feed your plants.
Don’t prune!
In general, it is best not to cut back plants at the time of planting. The exception would be any broken branches. Keep the trimming of newly planted trees and shrubs to a minimum at this time.
I hope this article has encouraged you to keep gardening this autumn! Take advantage of the benefits of this time of year and invest in the beauty of your yard and garden for all the seasons to come.
http://ventureoutnursery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Final-Logo-1-1.jpg00Tobey Nelsonhttp://ventureoutnursery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Final-Logo-1-1.jpgTobey Nelson2024-10-01 21:59:002024-10-02 20:53:46Fall Planting Dos and Don’ts for the Pacific Northwest
Ornamental grasses are the perfect way to add texture and movement to a garden. While they look great all year, fall is the time when they really shine.
Mother Nature coaxed the evolution of a grass for every ecological niche: there are both evergreen and deciduous types, and varieties that grow in shade as well as sun. Plant breeders have made improvements on the work of Nature. Now there are grasses offering leaves of brilliant lemon yellow, calming powdery blues, cozy deep wine reds, tawny toffee browns and oranges, and some with stripes and some with splashes. There are wide and skinny blades to suit a range of texture needs. Their flowers range from soft bunny tail-like wands to velvety plumes to charming dangly oat-esque seed heads to spikes that look like a glistening explosion of fireworks when they are backlit in the low autumn sun.
Many grasses offer fall color. Many offer drought resilience. Whether you need a short little tuft or a tower fountain, include some grasses in your garden and enjoy the sound of grass rustling in the wind.
Maintenance Tips
The best time to plant grasses is fall, when they are readily available in nurseries. You can also plant in the spring. Evergreen grasses should not be cut back! Deciduous grasses are best tidied up in February just when new growth starts. If your grass needs a boost, fertilize in March or April.
Here are some of our favorites.
Evergreen grasses for sun
Carex testacea, buchanini – Bronze sedges
Festuca – Blue Fescue
Helictotrichon – Blue Oat Grass
Evergreen grasses for shade
Acorus – Sweet Flag
Carex Evercolor series –Everest, EverGlow, Eversheen, Everillo, Everoro, or Feather Falls
Lirope spicata & muscari – Lilyturf & Mondo Grasses
Ophiopogon ‘Nigrescens’ – Black Mondo Grass
Deciduous grasses for sun
Anemanthele
Calamagrostis – Feather Reed Grass
Imperata ‘Red Baron’ – Japanese Blood Grass
Molina caerula – Moor Grass
Panicum – Switch Grass
Pennisetum – Fountain Grass
Deciduous grasses for shade
Carex elata Bowles Golden – Golden Sedge
Chasmanthium latifolium – Sea Oats
Deschampsia cespitosa – Tufted Hair Grass
Hakonechloa macra – Japanese Forest Grass (several cultivars)
Watch this video with Tobey Nelson to see some of these grasses and learn more about using them in your garden!
We’ve pulled together a list of links to each of our bare root fruit and veggie related blogs for 2024 to make it easier for you to find what you’re looking for!
Read about the varieties we are carrying this year, including pollination charts and root stock information here:
Raspberries are best grown in full sun and rich well drained soil with regular irrigation. Their blooms are attractive to pollinators and birds will compete with you for the fruit, making them quite wildlife friendly! Raspberries are self-pollinating.
After planting, prune the bare-root canes back to about 2 inches above the ground. Do not skip this step! This encourages the roots to send up new growth during the growing season. It is the nature of raspberry plants to send up new growth as suckers or basal shoots from below the ground. This means the canes that you plant may not be where you find signs of life or new growth. When it’s time to grow, you will see new sprouts emerge from the ground around where you planted the cane; this growth is coming from the raspberry plant’s root system.
Canby “Spring” Crop Raspberry: A tasty, nearly thornless raspberry producing large, good quality, bright red berries. Strong vigorous canes support the heavy summer crop. Nearly the ideal berry, great for freezing, canning, cooking, and fresh eating. Developed in Oregon and first introduced in 1953.
Caroline Everbearing Raspberry: Heavy crops of large berries with fantastic, intense flavor. Fruits ripen in summer and continue producing until frost. Tolerant to root rot and has a high resistance to gray mold.
Honey Queen Everbearing Raspberry: Honey Queen lives up to its name with its deliciously sweet honey flavor packed into beautiful yellow, soft, and medium-sized berries perfect for picking and eating in the summer.
Royalty Purple Raspberry: Clusters of large, purple berries ripen in late summer. This variety is known for its sweet-tart flavor, making it perfect for desserts or fresh snacking. Its vibrant fruits and consistent yields make it a top choice for gardeners.
Currant
Currants are beautiful additions to your yard or landscape, not only your fruit bowl! These upright-growing shrubs are great for a fruiting hedge or screen; they are attractive in bloom and are a striking sight when fruiting, with large clusters of berries cascading down the heavily laden branches. Currants are rich in antioxidants and have a much higher vitamin C content than oranges. They are attractive to pollinators and wildlife! Plant in full sun to light shade, in rich well-drained soil. Currants are drought-tolerant, but fruit set and quality will be compromised with irregular water or in poor soils.
Primus White Currant: One of the sweetest of all currants. Heavy yields of beautiful white berries on a compact shrub.
Asparagus
Asparagus is a perennial vegetable that takes 3 – 5 years to establish – but it is worth the wait! Careful site preparation and planting will bring rewards in the long run. Dig a trench 12” – 15” deep and wide. Add compost and/or aged manure, making a mound. You may also wish to incorporate some all-purpose granular organic fertilizer. Place crowns 12” – 18” apart on top of the mound, spreading roots out well. Cover with rich soil; crowns should be at least 6” deep. Water well. As shoots appear, continue to cover with soil until the trench is full. For the first two growing seasons, do not harvest the shoots – rather leave them to develop leaves which will speed development of a robust root system. In the third and fourth year you may take a small harvest of stalks larger than pencil size, being sure to leave an ample number of stalks to develop into leafy stems. In the fifth year and beyond, you can harvest shoots for about a month to 6 weeks until shoot size begins to diminish. Then leave those shoots to grow on and feed that plant.
Mary Washington Asparagus: This variety offers buttery and robust flavor, thick straight green stalks and later, fern-like foliage.
Sweet Purple Asparagus: In addition to the fun coloration, the flavor is said to be distinctly sweeter than green asparagus. This variety is less prone to developing fibrous strings and woody stalks.
http://ventureoutnursery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Final-Logo-1-1.jpg00Tobey Nelsonhttp://ventureoutnursery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Final-Logo-1-1.jpgTobey Nelson2024-01-24 23:05:192024-01-27 21:39:20Bare Root Small Fruits/Veg 2024