Follow these tips to keep your real Christmas tree as fresh as possible. If you are unable to set up your tree when you get home, store it in a cool sheltered area like the North side house, away from the wind and sun. With proper care, your Christmas tree will bring warmth and pleasure throughout the holiday season!
1. Make a fresh cut.
If you didn’t have us make a fresh cut at the Nursery, before you bring the tree into your home and place it in a stand, re-cut the trunk at least one inch from the bottom just before putting it in the stand. Even if you just cut it on a choose and cut farm, this re-opens the tree stem so it can drink water.
2. Choose a spot away from heat sources.
Heat sources like heat registers, space heaters, fireplaces, wood stove, televisions, computer monitors, etc. speed up evaporation and moisture loss of the tree.
3. Water immediately.
After making the fresh cut, place the tree in a large capacity stand with warm water. The stand you use should hold at least one gallon of fresh water.
4. Don’t add anything to the water.
Research has shown that plain tap water is the best. Some commercial additives and home concoctions can actually decrease a tree’s moisture retention and increase needle loss.
5. Check water level daily.
Do not allow the water level to drop below the fresh cut or the stem will reseal and be unable to drink. Christmas trees are very thirsty! It is not unusual for a tree to drink 2 gallons of water the first day it is the stand.
Living Christmas Trees
A Holiday Memory to Enjoy Year after Year!
Tired of investing in a beautiful conifer every December, only to throw it out in January? Consider purchasing a living Christmas tree to plant in your landscape after the holidays!
Tips for Success
1. Only keep living Christmas trees inside your home for a maximum of 7-10 days. We recommend moving the potted tree into your garage or other protected area for a week before moving it indoors. Likewise, after the holiday it’s a good idea to move it back to the garage for a week before planting. This allows the tree to adjust to the sudden change in temperature!
2.Living Christmas trees need water every day, but not too much! Once inside your home, an eight-foot conifer will enjoy about a quart of water per day, broken up into smaller doses. One way to do this is to sprinkle ice cubes over the root ball: they will melt slowly and water the tree a little at a time.
3.Use low-heat electric lights, and position the tree away from heaters to avoid drying out.
4. Choose an appropriate location to plant your tree: plenty of sunlight and well-draining soil are the two primary needs of most conifers.
5.Don’t fertilize until spring. Fertilizing during transplanting can stress the tree.
6. Water your transplanted tree.Keep an eye on your new tree for the first couple summers, and water it during periods of heat and drought. As the root system becomes more established, conifers become more independent and drought-tolerant.
Happy Holidays!
http://ventureoutnursery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Final-Logo-1-1.jpg00Venture Out Teamhttp://ventureoutnursery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Final-Logo-1-1.jpgVenture Out Team2024-11-25 09:28:042024-11-25 18:51:15Caring for your fresh cut and living Christmas Trees
Fall is a great time to plant here in the Pacific Northwest. Cool temperatures and increased moisture mean lower transpiration rates, making fall planting and transplanting less stressful for a plant than in spring or summer.
Don’t wait for spring!
Fall-planted trees, shrubs, and perennials develop more established root systems. Plants that seem to be “sleeping” during the winter are actually hard at work growing roots. Between October and March, there are several root growth cycles. A shrub planted in the fall will be more robust and resilient than the same shrub planted the following spring.
Do plant before the ground freezes!
Plants are more insulated in the ground than above it. If you have plants still sitting around in their pots, it’s better to get them into the ground than to leave them unplanted. Even if you are unsure of where they should go, plant them somewhere. You can always transplant them later! If you must leave plants unplanted, bring them into a cool garage or at least insulate their pots/root balls with some mulch, in a pile of autumn leaves, or stack some evergreen boughs around them. If you can get a shovel in the ground with relative ease, you can plant, which is the best solution.
Do check for water!
Our abundant rainfall in winter usually means less work for the gardener. Soils typically remain moist between October and April. But sometimes we see dry spells, and winter winds can be desiccating. Areas under eaves or large evergreens can tend toward the dry side as well. Don’t assume that since it is raining, your plants are well watered. Do go out and feel the soil to see if it is moist several inches down. You may need to supplement occasionally.
Do mulch!
Our fall and winter temperatures can vary, and these temperature changes can be a bit hard on roots. Providing a nice blanket of mulch can help moderate soil fluctuations, which your plants will appreciate. Plus, keeping the soil “in the dark” will suppress those cool-season weeds! Just remember to keep the mulch away from the trunks and crowns of your trees and shrubs, and don’t bury your perennials!
Do consider staking!
During the winter, we can get winds that can impact unrooted trees. Do consider staking fall-planted trees to help keep them straight. Remember to give them some wiggle room and not tie them too tightly. Here is a short video guide from the International Society of Arboriculture for staking trees.
Don’t fertilize!
Fertilizing can confuse a plant, making it think it is time to grow when it’s not. Fall-planted trees and shrubs rarely need any fertilizer. It is best to wait until March or April to feed your plants.
Don’t prune!
In general, it is best not to cut back plants at the time of planting. The exception would be any broken branches. Keep the trimming of newly planted trees and shrubs to a minimum at this time.
I hope this article has encouraged you to keep gardening this autumn! Take advantage of the benefits of this time of year and invest in the beauty of your yard and garden for all the seasons to come.
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Ornamental grasses are the perfect way to add texture and movement to a garden. While they look great all year, fall is the time when they really shine.
Mother Nature coaxed the evolution of a grass for every ecological niche: there are both evergreen and deciduous types, and varieties that grow in shade as well as sun. Plant breeders have made improvements on the work of Nature. Now there are grasses offering leaves of brilliant lemon yellow, calming powdery blues, cozy deep wine reds, tawny toffee browns and oranges, and some with stripes and some with splashes. There are wide and skinny blades to suit a range of texture needs. Their flowers range from soft bunny tail-like wands to velvety plumes to charming dangly oat-esque seed heads to spikes that look like a glistening explosion of fireworks when they are backlit in the low autumn sun.
Many grasses offer fall color. Many offer drought resilience. Whether you need a short little tuft or a tower fountain, include some grasses in your garden and enjoy the sound of grass rustling in the wind.
Maintenance Tips
The best time to plant grasses is fall, when they are readily available in nurseries. You can also plant in the spring. Evergreen grasses should not be cut back! Deciduous grasses are best tidied up in February just when new growth starts. If your grass needs a boost, fertilize in March or April.
Here are some of our favorites.
Evergreen grasses for sun
Carex testacea, buchanini – Bronze sedges
Festuca – Blue Fescue
Helictotrichon – Blue Oat Grass
Evergreen grasses for shade
Acorus – Sweet Flag
Carex Evercolor series –Everest, EverGlow, Eversheen, Everillo, Everoro, or Feather Falls
Lirope spicata & muscari – Lilyturf & Mondo Grasses
Ophiopogon ‘Nigrescens’ – Black Mondo Grass
Deciduous grasses for sun
Anemanthele
Calamagrostis – Feather Reed Grass
Imperata ‘Red Baron’ – Japanese Blood Grass
Molina caerula – Moor Grass
Panicum – Switch Grass
Pennisetum – Fountain Grass
Deciduous grasses for shade
Carex elata Bowles Golden – Golden Sedge
Chasmanthium latifolium – Sea Oats
Deschampsia cespitosa – Tufted Hair Grass
Hakonechloa macra – Japanese Forest Grass (several cultivars)
Watch this video with Tobey Nelson to see some of these grasses and learn more about using them in your garden!
We’ve pulled together a list of links to each of our bare root fruit and veggie related blogs for 2024 to make it easier for you to find what you’re looking for!
Read about the varieties we are carrying this year, including pollination charts and root stock information here:
Raspberries are best grown in full sun and rich well drained soil with regular irrigation. Their blooms are attractive to pollinators and birds will compete with you for the fruit, making them quite wildlife friendly! Raspberries are self-pollinating.
After planting, prune the bare-root canes back to about 2 inches above the ground. Do not skip this step! This encourages the roots to send up new growth during the growing season. It is the nature of raspberry plants to send up new growth as suckers or basal shoots from below the ground. This means the canes that you plant may not be where you find signs of life or new growth. When it’s time to grow, you will see new sprouts emerge from the ground around where you planted the cane; this growth is coming from the raspberry plant’s root system.
Canby “Spring” Crop Raspberry: A tasty, nearly thornless raspberry producing large, good quality, bright red berries. Strong vigorous canes support the heavy summer crop. Nearly the ideal berry, great for freezing, canning, cooking, and fresh eating. Developed in Oregon and first introduced in 1953.
Caroline Everbearing Raspberry: Heavy crops of large berries with fantastic, intense flavor. Fruits ripen in summer and continue producing until frost. Tolerant to root rot and has a high resistance to gray mold.
Honey Queen Everbearing Raspberry: Honey Queen lives up to its name with its deliciously sweet honey flavor packed into beautiful yellow, soft, and medium-sized berries perfect for picking and eating in the summer.
Royalty Purple Raspberry: Clusters of large, purple berries ripen in late summer. This variety is known for its sweet-tart flavor, making it perfect for desserts or fresh snacking. Its vibrant fruits and consistent yields make it a top choice for gardeners.
Currant
Currants are beautiful additions to your yard or landscape, not only your fruit bowl! These upright-growing shrubs are great for a fruiting hedge or screen; they are attractive in bloom and are a striking sight when fruiting, with large clusters of berries cascading down the heavily laden branches. Currants are rich in antioxidants and have a much higher vitamin C content than oranges. They are attractive to pollinators and wildlife! Plant in full sun to light shade, in rich well-drained soil. Currants are drought-tolerant, but fruit set and quality will be compromised with irregular water or in poor soils.
Primus White Currant: One of the sweetest of all currants. Heavy yields of beautiful white berries on a compact shrub.
Asparagus
Asparagus is a perennial vegetable that takes 3 – 5 years to establish – but it is worth the wait! Careful site preparation and planting will bring rewards in the long run. Dig a trench 12” – 15” deep and wide. Add compost and/or aged manure, making a mound. You may also wish to incorporate some all-purpose granular organic fertilizer. Place crowns 12” – 18” apart on top of the mound, spreading roots out well. Cover with rich soil; crowns should be at least 6” deep. Water well. As shoots appear, continue to cover with soil until the trench is full. For the first two growing seasons, do not harvest the shoots – rather leave them to develop leaves which will speed development of a robust root system. In the third and fourth year you may take a small harvest of stalks larger than pencil size, being sure to leave an ample number of stalks to develop into leafy stems. In the fifth year and beyond, you can harvest shoots for about a month to 6 weeks until shoot size begins to diminish. Then leave those shoots to grow on and feed that plant.
Mary Washington Asparagus: This variety offers buttery and robust flavor, thick straight green stalks and later, fern-like foliage.
Sweet Purple Asparagus: In addition to the fun coloration, the flavor is said to be distinctly sweeter than green asparagus. This variety is less prone to developing fibrous strings and woody stalks.
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Nuts are an investment in the long term. Trees need time to mature before they can reliably produce mature fruit. Protect the harvest from squirrels and birds.
Hazelnuts/Filberts (Corylus avellana)
Plant in very moist, fertile, well-drained soil for best results. A full-sun to part-shade site should be chosen for optimal results. Hazelnuts are not pollinated by our native Filbert.
Jefferson: Thought to be the best all-around hazelnut variety for commercial or home growers in the USA. Extreme disease resistance; immune to Filbert Blight. Produces heavy yields of large nuts that consistently fill out their shells. An Oregon State University introduction. Pollinated by Theta & McDonald.
McDonald: Very disease resistant, early cropping, consistently productive with consistent quality and good flavor. Plant with Jefferson, Eta and/or Theta for cross-pollination.
Yamhill: This recent introduction from Oregon State University features attractive, compact growth habit, good crops of large and delicious nuts, and total resistance to Eastern Filbert Blight. Yamhill’s high productivity has made it popular with commercial growers. Plant with Jefferson or Gamma for cross-pollination.
Walnuts
Walnuts require two varieties for cross pollination. They also require patience, as they may not begin bearing until after 10 years of establishment.
Cascade:Manregian x Russian. Thin shell, excellent buttery flavor from plump, light colored kernels. Fast growing, large tree. Self-fertile but much better with a pollinizer.
Carpathian: English type, very cold-hardy, excellent quality hard nut.
Almonds
Hall’s Hardy: Hardy and bears heavy. Large nut and hard shell. Late.
Chestnuts
Chestnut Colossal:Exceptionally large nuts of good quality. Sweet flavor, smooth texture and easy to peel. Early ripening. Plant with Nevada Chestnut for cross-pollination.
Nevada Chestnut: An attractive, large spreading tree with tropical looking, glossy green leaves and showy, fragrant, yellow catkins. Medium sized, very sweet tasting nut. Plant at least two different trees to cross pollinate. Good Pollinizer for Colossal.
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All our fruiting cherries are grown on dwarfing Gisela 5 rootstock (unless otherwise noted) to make them easier for bird netting and access to the fruit. Sour cherries (Prunus cerasus) are said to be self-fertile, but sweet cherries (Prunus avium) need a second sweet variety as a pollinator. Since sour and sweet are different species, they do not pollinate each other.
Sweet Cherries:
Angela: Has large, sweet, black fruit that resists cracking and disease. Blooms early to mid-season. Ripens mid-season. A self-pollinating tree but will perform better with another variety such as Stella or Van.
Bing: The most popular sweet cherry on the American market, Bing cherries produce large, dark smooth skinned fruit in mid-June to early July. The fruit is firm and extremely juicy and very sweet. Great for fresh eating, baking or preserves. One tree can be a heavy producer, with mature specimens producing 50-100lbs of fruit in one year. A WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety. Blooms early. NOT self-fertile; pair with Rainier, Lapin, Stella, Sam, or Van for pollination.
Lapin: An outstanding sweet dark cherry for Northwest gardens. Fruit is very large and crack resistant, sweet, juicy, perfect for fresh eating or baking. Blooms early, ripens mid-season. Said to be self-fertile but fruit set can be improved with another variety such as Rainier or Bing. A WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety.
Rainier: Large, delicious fruits are yellow with pink blush. Blooms early. Needs a pollinizer such as Bing, Lapins, or Royal Anne or Vandalay.
Royal Rainier: Large yellow cherry with slightly more red blush than Rainier. Excellent flavor, taste test winner. Ripens early, about 3-5 days ahead of Rainier. Pollinated by Bing and Lapins. Maxma 14 rootstock
Sam: Fruit are so dark red in color they are almost black. The flavor is considered “sweet/tart”. An excellent choice for the Pacific Northwest because of its resistance to cracking/canker, cold hardiness, and heavy yields. Pollinate with Bing.
Stella: Developed in British Columbia, Stella was the first self-fertile cherry to be named. Large, heart-shaped red fruits are sweet and juicy. Considered a universal pollinizer for all sweet cherries except Bing. Blossoms mid-season and ripens early. A reliable and heavy producer. Winner of the RHS Award of Garden Merit.
Vandalay: Well-suited to Northwest gardens. Cherries are deep wine-black, firm and have excellent flavor for fresh eating. A disease resistant/crack resistant, productive WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety. Early blooming & self-fertile, but fruit set may be improved by planting with Bing, Lapin, Rainier.
Sweet Cherry 4-way Dwarf Combo: (4 of these 5 varieties) Bing, Rainier, Lapin, Glacier, Van, Royal Ann
Tart/Pie Cherries:
Montmorency: this variety has been cultivated in this country since the early 20th century. It is the most popular sour cherry in America. It produces a large, light red fruit for baking, drying and juicing. Self-fertile.
Cherry Rootstock:
Gisela 5: Dwarf 50-65% seedling size; early fruiting and productive; good frost and virus resistance, well-anchored, adaptable to a variety of soil types. Requires supplemental irrigation.
Maxma 14®: Dwarfing to about 2/3 of standard. Less dwarfing expected in fertile loamy soils. Induces early heavy bearing; crop management may be needed for productive varieties in early years. Good tolerance to wet soils, also performs well in calcareous soils. Resistant to bacterial canker and nematodes. Well anchored, very little suckering. Trees may be held to any desired height by summer pruning.
Harcot Apricot: This disease-resistant variety was bred in Canada, making it a great choice for northern gardens because it is a frost-hardy late bloomer resistant to brown rot and perennial canker. Fruits are oblong and yellow-orange with a rich, sweet flavor. Self-fertile but benefits from pollination from another apricot variety such as ‘Harglow’. Mariana 2624 rootstock.
Harglow Apricot: This productive variety is a proven performer for the PNW climate. It’s late blooming and early ripening (August), producing a flavorful, sweet & firm, medium to large apricot that is deep orange with a delightful blush of red. Resistant to perennial canker, brown rot, and cracking. Self-fertile but benefits from pollination from another apricot variety such as ‘Harcot’. Mariana 2624 rootstock.
Peach
Frost Peach: A seedling from the WSU Mt Vernon test gardens, this peach is a solid choice for PNW gardens. The semi-freestone fruit has yellow flesh covered in red-blushed skin and is tasty fresh or canned. This variety is very productive, vigorous, and shows resistance to peach leaf curl. It is also quite ornamental. Self-fertile. Citation or Mariana 2624 rootstock.
Indian Free Peach: A hardy, freestone peach that is naturally resistant to peach leaf curl! Taste test winner. Fruits have white flesh marbled with crimson stripes, covered in dark red skin. Productive variety ripens in mid-late season with delicious flavor, great for fresh eating or preserves. Self-sterile; pollinate with another peach variety such as ‘Frost’ or ‘Harken’. Citation rootstock.
Harken Peach: Bred in Canada, this Peach is adapted to cool summers and is one of the most reliable varieties for rainy climates. Medium-large fruit with delicious flavor, strong red blushing over yellow skin and creamy yellow non-browning flesh, great for fresh eating or canning. One of the highest rated peaches for western WA. Self-fertile. Citation rootstock.
Nectarine
Hardy Red Nectarine: The best Nectarine variety for cool, short summers. Tolerant of bacterial spot and brown rot. Freestone fruit has very sweet, yellow flesh covered in golden-blushed red-skin. Ripens in mid-August. Self-fertile. Mariana 2624 rootstock.
Rootstock Info:
CITATION: Dwarfs peaches and nectarines to 8-14 ft., apricots and plums to 12-18 ft. Very tolerant of wet soil, not drought tolerant (induces early dormancy in dry soil). Very winter hardy. Resists root-knot nematodes. Induces heavy bearing at young age. Trees on Citation may be held to any desired height by summer pruning.
MARIANNA 2624: For apricots, plums, & most almonds. Shallow root system, tolerant of wet soils. Resists oak-root fungus and root-knot nematodes. Mature trees of standard varieties comparatively small, 15-20 ft. if unpruned. Trees on Marianna may be held to any desired height by summer pruning.
Japanese Persimmons (Diosypros kaki) can grow 15’ – 30’ tall. They are valued for both their ornamental and fruiting qualities. They require full sun and can tolerate brief periods of drought but extended drought can kill them. Regular watering will support shoot and fruit development. Asian persimmons do not need pollination to set fruit, and do so on young wood, so regular pruning to maintain vigorous, young wood is advised. Our offerings are grafted onto D. lotus rootstock.
Fuyu Jiro: Known as “Apple Persimmon”, this is a medium, flat-shaped fruit that is still crunchy when ripe, non-astringent. The hardy, attractive tree is practically pest free. You can make tea from the leaves! Fall harvest. Self- fruitful.
Chocolate: Fruits are small to medium size, oblong, with bright red skin and sweet, spicy, firm, brown flesh with superb flavor ‑ the choice of connoisseurs. The name comes not from the appearance, but for the notes of cocoa in the flavor. Self-fruitful.
Prunus Combos
Fruit Cocktail 4-way Combo: Frost Peach, Puget Gold Apricot, Hardy Red Nectarine, Italian Prune, Ranier Cherry and Lapin Cherry. Mariana 2624 rootstock.
4-way Fruit Salad: Frost Peach, Puget Gold Apricot, Harcot Apricot, Hardy Red Nectarine, Nadia Plum, Shiro Plum. Mariana 2624 rootstock.
Intergeneric Prunus Crosses
Flavor Delight Aprium: This apricot x plum hybrid produces a fruit resembling an apricot but has a firm texture and sweet flavor all its own! One of the tastiest early-season fruits. Self-fertile but more productive when pollinated by another apricot variety. Citation rootstock.
Bella Gold Peacotum: This peach x apricot x plum hybrid makes a rounded fruit with fuzzy red-gold skin. Tart skin gives way to mildly sweet amber flesh for a delightful eating experience. Early-midseason bloom, ripens mid-late season. Naturally semi-dwarf tree. Pollinized by ‘Harcot’ Apricot. Citation rootstock.
Flavor Punch Pluerry: This plum x cherry hybrid boasts extremely high flavor fruit with orange skin blushed red, and red/orange flesh. Late ripening with a long hang-time extends your fruit harvest into fall. Harvest mid August through September. Pollenized by Pluot®, Pluerry® and mid-late blooming plum. Citation rootstock.
Dapple Dandy Pluot: You may know this fruit from the grocery stores where it is sold as a Dinosaur Egg Plum. This is a freestone plum x apricot hybrid with not just a unique speckled appearance, but a juicy, delicious flavor. Pollinize with Asian plum, such as Hollywood, Beauty, or Santa Rosa plum. Citation rootstock.
Nadia Plum Cherry: This complex cross of ‘Black Amber’ Asian plum and ‘Supreme’ sweet cherry yields a tastebud-tingling combination of summery plum flavor with an intriguing note of cherry. Larger than a cherry and smaller than a plum, the skin is dark red as is the flesh. The fruit is firm, sweet/tart and very juicy! Needs pollinization from another Asian plum. Mariana 2624 rootstock.
Quince (Cydonia oblonga)
Smyrna: Pineapple Quince is an attractive small tree with large cup-shaped pink and white flowers that yield generous crops of large yellow sweetly aromatic fruit with a flavor reminiscent of pineapple. Used widely for preserves and pectin. Self-fertile; ripens in late fall; deserves to be more widely grown.
Most apples require another apple or crabapple variety to produce fruit. See chart at the end of document for more information.
Anna: Very early blooming, early ripening and very productive. A Golden Delicious type great for fresh eating or cooking. Sweet, spicy, unusual flavor in a beautifully blushed fruit. Considered partially self-fertile but better with a pollinizer. M7 rootstock.
Beni Shogun Fuji: Hailing from Japan, this variety is scab and mildew resistant making it a wonderful choice for organic growers. The fruit is medium-large, has orange-red skin, crisp texture, and juicy sweet flavor and a distinctive aroma. While Fujis are considered late to ripen, this variety is the earliest in the group, ready for harvest in mid-September. It is excellent for eating, cider, and stores well. M106 rootstock.
Braeburn: Developed in New Zealand in the 1950s, the Braeburn is considered a “dessert” apple: juicy with a crisp texture, and a flavor described as sharp and refreshing, sweet without being sugary. The skin is washed in shades of red and green – it was one of the first bi-colored varieties created! A WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety for the Puget Sound. Matures late, keeps well. M106 rootstock.
Chehalis: This old favorite was discovered north of Chehalis, WA in 1937. This is a large, sweet yellow apple that resembles Golden Delicious in looks and flavor, but it is crisper and larger. This reliable, highly productive tree is suited for organic growers; it is highly resistant to scab and has good mildew resistance. Fruit ripens in mid/late September. Great for fresh eating, and saucing. M106 rootstock.
Cosmic Crisp: Developed by Washington State University and released in 2019, this apple is suited to the PNW. Mid to late season bloom, ripens in early October. The flavor is exceptional, both sweet and tart, making it an excellent apple for fresh eating. It is slow to brown once cut, has a long storage life, and holds its flavor well. Red in color with yellow flecks on the skin. M26 rootstock. Not pollinized by Honeycrisp or Enterprise.
Enterprise: This versatile apple started out in 1982 as a seedling and was released to market in 1993.This deep maroon apple is mildly tart and spicy, it is good for eating right off the tree, its flavor improves after storage and can be stored for up to six months. Apple scab immune and resistant to fireblight. Ripens in early October; holds well on the tree. M106 rootstock.
Gala: The most popular apple in the world, a cross between Golden Delicious and Kidd’s Orange Red. This apple has pale golden yellow skin covered by a stripy red blush; flesh is juicy and sweet with hints of vanilla and a floral aroma. This is a great multi-purpose apple suited for fresh eating, juicing and cooking, but not for storing. Late blooming, early to ripen. Mildew resistant. M106 rootstock.
Gravenstein: This nostalgic cultivar was the primary variety used during WWII to make apple sauce and dried apples to feed the troops. The skin is a delicate waxy yellow-green with crimson spots and reddish lines. The flesh is juicy, finely grained, and light yellow. One of the best cooking apples but sadly not suited for storage, which is why it is seldom found in markets. An early to mid-season bloomer, one of the first apples to ripen. This is a triploid variety which means it is a poor pollinator of other apples. Semi-dwarf rootstock.
Honeycrisp: A modern apple with perhaps the best eating qualities in history. Medium to large red blushed with yellow apples are highly aromatic. Explosively crisp, sweet and juicy, yet with some tartness. Excellent for fresh eating, cooking, storing and juicing! Fruit ripens in late September but becomes more flavorful if left on the tree into October. Good disease resistance. A WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety. Available on either M106 or Geneva 969 rootstock. Not pollinized by Cosmic Crisp.
King: This historic variety has been known since 1804. Large fruits are waxy yellow-green with red striping, flesh is crisp and sweet. They are excellent for fresh eating, cider and cooking. Will keep 2-3 months. Bears mid-to-late Oct. This highly prized apple is a tip bearer: wait to prune until two inches of new growth has begun in spring. Then prune back to 6-8′ of last years’ growth! This variety is triploid, and will not pollinize other varieties.
Liberty: One of the easiest apples to grow, this variety should be included in all Whidbey orchards. It produces a bounty of medium sized, shiny red aromatic apples with yellow overtones. The very juicy fruit has crisp white flesh and a sweet, crunchy texture. Good for fresh eating, baking and ciders. Ripens in late September and stores well. Very disease resistant. The tree tends to over-produce; thinning produces better quality fruit. A WSU Mt. Vernon recommended variety. M106 rootstock.
Lucy Rose: A golden apple with – surprise! – striking rose-colored flesh inside and a distinctly strawberry-like flavor. M106 rootstock. Not pollinized by Honeycrisp (a parent).
Melrose: A cross between Johnathon and Red Delicious, the fruits are large & flattened like Jonathan, with skin that is streaked and flushed with dark red over a background of yellowish-green skin, with spots of russet. The flesh is creamy white, firm, coarse-textured, and juicy. The flavor is mildly acidic, similar to Jonathan, but not as tart. It is top-rated for reliability and productivity. Often used for baking, Melrose is a great keeper apple whose flavor often improves with storage. Ripens in October Semi dwarf.
Mutsu: Also known as Crispin. Sweet, honeyed flavor – good for eating, baking, and cider! Cross between Golden Delicious and Indo. Its large fruit is green/yellow. Highly resistant to frost injury. Ripens end of September. Some disease susceptibility, does not pollinate other trees, tends toward biennial production. This variety is pollen sterile and will not pollinize other varieties.
North Pole: This is a space-friendly apple; the columnar form is suited for any small garden, patio, or even a large pot!This is a red apple in the Macintosh group, so expect a juicy, sweet-tart flavor. You can keep this tree to 2-3’ wide by 6-8’ tall. M7 rootstock.
Pink Pearl: Flavorful, aromatic yellow apple with bright pink flesh! Use it to make a beautiful pink applesauce or to add color to fruit salads. This apple is worth growing, even though it has some susceptibility to scab. Ripens in late September. M106 rootstock.
Pristine: medium size yellow fruit, crisp and mildly tart. Ripens in August. Great for fresh eating, saucing, and baking. Good disease resistance. A WSU recommended variety. M106 rootstock.
Scarlet Sentinel: This is a space-friendly apple; the columnar form is suited for any small garden, patio, or even a large pot!This is a Macintosh type apple so expect that crisp snappy taste! M7 rootstock.
Sunrise Magic: Developed by WSU, this is a cross between Splendor and Gala. Pinkish-red blush over a yellow background, fruit is firm, crisp and juicy with a bright sweet flavor. Great fresh off the tree and stores well too. Ripens late Sept/early Oct. M26 rootstock.
Winter Banana: This heirloom variety, hailing from Indiana circa 1876, is a beautiful apple with a waxy yellow skin delicately blushed pink when ripe. The flesh is tender and has a subtle, tropical-fruit flavor best-suited for fresh eating. A tree full of ripe fruit can give off the scent of bananas. The low chill requirements make this apple well-suited for west-coast gardens. It is one of the few self-fertile apples, but it will produce more reliably with another pollinizer. M111 rootstock.
Espalier: A tiered fruit tree with 3 different kinds of apple varieties grafted to one root stock, ensured to pollinate each other.
Espalier 2: Gala, Honeycrisp, Fuji (on M26 rootstock)
Espalier 3: Akane, Honeycrisp, Liberty (on M26 rootstock)
Apple Pollination Guide
In general, all apples need to be cross-pollinated by another apple that flowers at the same time. The safest is to choose another variety in bloom at the same time, but typically there is adequate overlap between each neighboring bloom category. For example, Braeburn is a mid-season apple, so while the safest is to choose another cultivar from the mid-season category, it is likely that a type from the early-mid or late season could also be used.
Varieties in *bold are pollen-sterile or triploid and cannot be used as pollinizers.
Certain apples will not be pollinized by cultivars that are in their parentage. For example, Cosmic Crisp is a cross of Enterprise x Honeycrisp so neither will work as a pollinizer.
Any apple in italics is a variety we have sold in the past but are not stocking this year.
Early
Early-Mid
Mid
Late
Anna
Akane
Braeburn
Beni Shogun
*Gravenstein
Early Pink Lady
Chehalis
Cosmic Crisp
McIntosh
Empire
Enterprise
Gala
Pink Pearl
Liberty
Jonamac
Golden Raindrops Crabapple
Zestar
McIntosh
*Jonagold
Granny Smith
North Pole
Lucy Rose
Honeycrisp
Pristine
Melrose
*King
Scarlet Sentinel
*Mutsu
Spartan
Yellow Transparent
Thunderchild Crabapple
Sunrise Magic
Winter Banana
Apple Rootstock Guide
M106 (EMLA106): Semidwarf, typically 10’ – 13’ tall; tolerant of many soil types except for very wet soils; early production.
Geneva 969: Semidwarf, 50% of standard size so typically 12’ – 15’ tall. High resistance to Wooly Apple aphids and fireblight. Medium resistance to Crown and Root rot. Precocious and productive. Provide adequate drainage.
M7(EMLA7): Semidwarf, unpruned tree height 2/3 of standard, or about 12-20 ft. Induces early and heavy bearing, resists fire blight and powdery mildew. Moderately resistant to collar rot. Good anchorage. Very winter hardy. Trees on M-7 may be held to any desired height by summer pruning.
M26 (EMLA26): Vigorous dwarf, about 40 to 45 percent of a standard tree. Needs some support in early years, but could be self-supporting in later years. Very early and heavy bearing. Adaptable for close plantings and double rows.
M111 (EMLA111): Dwarf; Unpruned tree height 80-90% of standard. Excellent all-around rootstock for apples. Tolerates wet, dry, or poor soil. Resists woolly apple aphids and collar rot. Induces bearing at young age. Trees on M-111 may be held to any desired height by summer pruning.
http://ventureoutnursery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Final-Logo-1-1.jpg00Tobey Nelsonhttp://ventureoutnursery.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Final-Logo-1-1.jpgTobey Nelson2024-01-19 23:59:042024-01-19 23:59:06Apples for 2024
